Yeah, it makes no sense to me either. But I picked up my new bow today (what a riot) and the first tuning showed knock high. So of course we moved the knock set down, which made the tear pattern worse (more knock high)??!! Has anyone had any experience with a situation like that? BTW, I am using a Still Shot rest.
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It is not the size of the dog in the fight that counts, it is the size of the fight in the dog!
Yep. Could very well be arrow bounce causing it. Double check your tiller also. And remember that paper tuning is just as much a test of your shooting form as it is bow tune. Make sure you're not getting excessive heel into your grip.
It could also be a spine issue. If the arrow is underspined it's possibly bending too much, crashing into the rest and bouncing back up as it passes through the paper. I suggest you try shooting through paper at several different distances. Try at 4', 10' and maybe 15' to see if the tear is the same at all distances.
As mentioned it could be a problem with form. Capture rests, although nice for holding the arrow on the rest, can show problems with form. Because the arrow is under continual guidance from the rest it is more important to have a good follow through until the arrow is completely free of the rest.
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My guess w/o seeing your set would be some form of contact also.
If you're using a drop away check for proper timing.
If it's a WB, make sure the vanes are in the proper orientation to the stiffer bristles.
More info. I am shooting a Hoyt Vectrix, 27" draw lenght, 27.5" in. Radial X Weave 400 arrows with a 125 grain tip. As indicated before the rest is a Still Shot (if you are not familiar with a Still Shot, it is a no contact Wisker Biscuit). I'm still having the same problem. I tried a variety of things, the most successfull of which was to reduct the poundage of my bow to 50 lbs. I didn't like it there as it made the bow sound like I was strumming a guitar. So I went back up to 57 and replaced the 125 grain tips with some 65 grain tips. Same problem. So I put on some other tips (unmarked, but I think are 100 grain). Same problem! So, I opened the door to the shop, took a few steps back into the shed and shot two bullet holes in a row! So I dunno..... In the immortal words of Tennessee Tuxedo "Help Mr. Wizard"!!!
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It is not the size of the dog in the fight that counts, it is the size of the fight in the dog!
I checked the X-Weave chart and you are WAY WAY overspined.
You should be shooting 100's or 200's , not 400's. The 400's carry a spine deflection of .337. For a lighter weight like yours I would say .520-.424.
I'm pretty sure that's the problem.
Who recommended 400's to you?
Thanks for the info. As in, thanks A LOT. This is the first time I have ever shot carbon arrows in my life. I don't know how many arrows I shot today, but letterally hundresd (man oh man is that new Hoyt ever friendly to shoot). I was getting pretty good groups but was still struggling with arrow flight. Unfortunately a young man at the bow shop selected them for me.... Oops. What is the weight defference between the 400's and the 100 or 200's? What do you think on the X-Weave as an arrow in general? Do you have a recommendation for my setup? I would like the keep the arrow weight as high as I can as, god willing and the creek doesn't rise, I will be flinging them at an elk this fall. Thanks again!
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It is not the size of the dog in the fight that counts, it is the size of the fight in the dog!
Tear high, move the knock point up??
