So I am about one hair away from going to a crossbow. The biggest reason is I dont have time or a place to practice, but aside from that I have little faith in my equipment. So here is a list of questions. If you guys could answer any or all it might save me $1000.00.
Arrows - My arrows are plastic veined, right helicle, as they come out of the box. I want to try feathers and blazers with my broadheads. DO I fletch them straight or helical? (I have a whisker biscuit)
Broadheads - I dont have time to discuss all the woes I have had on broadheads. I dont want mechanicals. What is out there that is quiet and doesnt need a lot of tunning?
Sights. Is there anything out there that is like a set of crosshairs? I have trouble with pin sites for some reason. I also am looking for a larger peep or an alternative to a peep.
String loops. Do these fail? It looks kind of scary to use these. Dont they come untied mid-draw?
Targets. Does the Glen-dell buck REALLY make broad head removal possible? I have always had to cut arrows out of the targets before.
__________________
What we need here is a good plague
So I am about one hair away from going to a crossbow. The biggest reason is I dont have time or a place to practice, but aside from that I have little faith in my equipment. So here is a list of questions. If you guys could answer any or all it might save me $1000.00.
Arrows - My arrows are plastic veined, right helicle, as they come out of the box. I want to try feathers and blazers with my broadheads. DO I fletch them straight or helical? (I have a whisker biscuit)
Broadheads - I dont have time to discuss all the woes I have had on broadheads. I dont want mechanicals. What is out there that is quiet and doesnt need a lot of tunning?
Sights. Is there anything out there that is like a set of crosshairs? I have trouble with pin sites for some reason. I also am looking for a larger peep or an alternative to a peep.
String loops. Do these fail? It looks kind of scary to use these. Dont they come untied mid-draw?
Targets. Does the Glen-dell buck REALLY make broad head removal possible? I have always had to cut arrows out of the targets before.
Arrows: It depends on what you like, I always stick with right offset (4 degrees) and have had no problems so far.
Broadheads: If you dont want to tune your bow, then you might want to stick with expandables, because NO fixed blade will shoot well out of an untuned bow. Spend the time and effort to tune your equipment. Dont worry about the money, and worry more about respecting the animal you are going to shoot enough to spend the time tuning. It will only make you a better overall archer. So, tune your bow, the buy slick tricks.
Sight: There are sights that have crosshairs, but this wont really work when you have to shoot at different yardages. If your crosshairs are on at 20, how the heck are you going to know where to aim at 36?
Peep: Try Specialty Archerys peeps, the come with removable apetures that can adjust how much light is coming through.
Loops: If tied properly, they dont fail. If you dont know what you are doing and try to tie one, you stand the chance of getting one nasty black eye, or worse, sending an arrow flying where it shouldnt be.
Targets: Dont know about the Glen-dell buck. All I shoot are portable Morrel targets that take broadheads like a champ.
If you have any more questions, well be happy to help, but for gods sake man, tune that bow. It will shoot much better!
__________________
Darton Pro3000
27"@71#+369gr arrow=301fps. Now that is FAST!
BuckNasty Strings...Simply the best!
Though I may not agree with what you say, I will defend to the death your right to say it.
I may have lead you astray. The bow is tuned. Actually, its dialed in well. Its braodhead tuning I am speaking about. I have shot some broadheads that fly great no matter how they are put on. Some needed lined up with the fletches.
__________________
What we need here is a good plague
Blazers are great, the instructions say to fletch them offset but mine are helical and they are fantastic. Shooting a WB I'd probably go with offset to keep drag down as they go through the rest.
I've never had a string loop fail in nearly 15 years of using them. Learn how to tie them in properly and replace them when they get worn (they usually outlast the string).
Broadheads; learn how to tune them to the arrow, there's no way around this one. (The crossbow doesn't solve this problem... it still shoots a broadhead.)
I may have lead you astray. The bow is tuned. Actually, its dialed in well. Its braodhead tuning I am speaking about. I have shot some broadheads that fly great no matter how they are put on. Some needed lined up with the fletches.
So you have....
Walk back tuned?
Bare shaft tuned?
Group tuned?
I find out of a well tuned bow any well made broadhead will fly well. Bad broadhead flight out of certain heads might indicate that you still have tuning left to be done
__________________
Darton Pro3000
27"@71#+369gr arrow=301fps. Now that is FAST!
BuckNasty Strings...Simply the best!
Though I may not agree with what you say, I will defend to the death your right to say it.
I will give you the same advise given to me many years ago , by Mr Nugent himself . Try 5 inch shield cut feathers glued on an offset of 2 to 4 degrees , and magnus 2 blade 100 grain heads . If those dont fly well for you, your bow may be out of tune or , your arrows spine may be too weak , or you may have a form problem ,
Those are some of the most forgiveing broadhead equiped arrows I can think of
__________________
Wear a full harness and tie yourself to your tree !
Take a kid hunting or fishing .
Nocks , the most overlooked component .
Campo, I have no idea what those things are. I have papertuned, Checked all the measurement, used laser levels, etc. My field tips fly great. I cant shoot at the same spot on the target at 20 yds cause they group so well, and seem to hit the target pretty straight.
So what are the other tunings?
I agree with the flat blades. They always shot well, but they dont make the brand I used to use anymore, and the last two types I tried were not well made, or whistled in flight. I have not tried the Magnus.
I also like feathers, but I have been told to put straight fletchings on with feathers. In fact at one bow shop I went to (out of state) they looked at me like my head was on backwards when I asked for helical fletchings for arrows I was going to hunt with. they said helicals are terrible for broadheads and refused to do them that way. (so I didnt have them done)
What I need the most is practice of course. I have lost a lot of confidence because of the number of deer I have lost in the last two years. I gave up last fall, sick from losing yet another deer. Im just hoping that by replacing things that I think dont work for me and practicing I will be able to hunt this year. As it is now I would not go today even if it were the peak of the rut.
__________________
What we need here is a good plague
Don't know what archery store told you they couldn't do helical with feathers, all I have ever shot are feathers and they are all helical. Now it is true that you are limited to the helical depending on the type of feather used, right with right, left with left; but straight fletching only is pure bull.
What type of arrows are you using? If you are using a light weight arrow in order to gain fps, reconsider. A heavier arrow is effected less by any windplaning from the broadhead and shoots consistently. It will also help quiet your shot by absorbing more energy than a lighter weight arrow.
I personally shoot XX75 MOBU 2217's with 125 gr. Muzzy 4 blades off a NAP drop away. The drop away allows me to use a very aggressive helical(left-hand, but I don't feel dirction makes alot of difference) with my 4 in. feathers. I had it chrono'd once and at 63 lbs was shooting 235 fps. That's slow by today's standards, but I hit where I'm looking out to fifty yds. I know total containment rests are nice but I've never been persuaded that they don't effect arrow flight. I've shot with and against several guys who use those in winter leagues and their groups are never quite as tight as the guys who are using drop aways or even older prongrests.
The nice thing about the Muzzy's is they are available with practice blades. You can shoot all you want then put in factory sharp blades to hunt with.
Agree totally with Campo about the string loop. Have shot with one for three years now and never had it fail.I do get it replaced the instant I notice any fraying to the string.
Pendulums are simply a single pin sight on a pivot. You sight in at 20-25 yards on the ground, then when you shoot from a tree stand the pivot automatically compensates for the angle. Keller made the original pendulum, but all the bigger companies market at least one. I haven't used one personally, but have many friends that swear by them.
I haven't shot a Glendel Buck but if it works the same as my Black Hole arrow removal should be quite easy.
updating my Bow
