what you need to refletch your arrows
#1
what you need to refletch your arrows
well this summer i wanted to get the supplies i need to refletch my arrows i have never done this before or even tried so i would like any answers of where to start...im mainly doin this that way i can find out what vanes or feathers work best for my setup and not have to worry about askin someone to take me across the city to get them refletched....i wanna know things like the type of glue ,the type of fleching deal...exc.
#2
RE: what you need to refletch your arrows
there are many choices.
For glue, i use the super glue gel type, sets up fast and holds good.
For a jig, I have an Arizona EZ Fletch, it works great with vanes but is a pain with feathers. It also is a PITA if you need to replace only one fletch on an arrow.
I also have a JoJan multi fletcher that works with feathers or vanes, it does 6 arrows at a time. they also sell it in a single model.
Just kind of depends on how much you want to spend to get started?
For glue, i use the super glue gel type, sets up fast and holds good.
For a jig, I have an Arizona EZ Fletch, it works great with vanes but is a pain with feathers. It also is a PITA if you need to replace only one fletch on an arrow.
I also have a JoJan multi fletcher that works with feathers or vanes, it does 6 arrows at a time. they also sell it in a single model.
Just kind of depends on how much you want to spend to get started?
#3
RE: what you need to refletch your arrows
If you plan on doing this for any length of time I would suggest the following:
Bitzenberger jig (straight, or left/right helical would be your choice). The Bitz is undeniably the best jig made. They last for decades (mines over 30 years old). One jig can be used for straight or left/right helical just by changing clamps and adjusting the clamp accordingly. Did I say you'll never wear it out????
Fletching---your choice here. That's part of the idea of doing your own. You get to experiment. Vanes, feathers, you name it.
Glue- there are lots on the market. Used pretty much all of them. Superglues are faster setting, but become brittle on the arrow and can be a pain to clean off the shaft. I prefer Fletchtite Platinum. It works pretty well on aluminum or carbon arrows. One tube lasts a long time.
Shaft stripper-- people make them too. Waste of money. I've used knives and all the strippers. Good ole single edged blades for utility knives work as well as anything. You just have to learn how to quide them with your finger and maintain the angle you need to not gouge carbon arrows. It's a learning process.
Shaft cleaners--Scotchbrite for roughing the shaft where the fletching will be applied. Rougher surface gives better adhesion. Solvents-- Acetone or denatured alcohol or 91% alcohol work as well as anything. Do not soak carbon arrows in acetone as it will destroy them. DO NOT use isoprphyl or rubbing alcohol as this had oils in it that leads to poor adhesion.
That's pretty much all you need to get started' Keep it simple.
Bitzenberger jig (straight, or left/right helical would be your choice). The Bitz is undeniably the best jig made. They last for decades (mines over 30 years old). One jig can be used for straight or left/right helical just by changing clamps and adjusting the clamp accordingly. Did I say you'll never wear it out????
Fletching---your choice here. That's part of the idea of doing your own. You get to experiment. Vanes, feathers, you name it.
Glue- there are lots on the market. Used pretty much all of them. Superglues are faster setting, but become brittle on the arrow and can be a pain to clean off the shaft. I prefer Fletchtite Platinum. It works pretty well on aluminum or carbon arrows. One tube lasts a long time.
Shaft stripper-- people make them too. Waste of money. I've used knives and all the strippers. Good ole single edged blades for utility knives work as well as anything. You just have to learn how to quide them with your finger and maintain the angle you need to not gouge carbon arrows. It's a learning process.
Shaft cleaners--Scotchbrite for roughing the shaft where the fletching will be applied. Rougher surface gives better adhesion. Solvents-- Acetone or denatured alcohol or 91% alcohol work as well as anything. Do not soak carbon arrows in acetone as it will destroy them. DO NOT use isoprphyl or rubbing alcohol as this had oils in it that leads to poor adhesion.
That's pretty much all you need to get started' Keep it simple.
#4
RE: what you need to refletch your arrows
Well BG summed it up pretty good , I'm with him on everything espeacially with the Bitz Jig ,they are the best . You don';t need to by a new one ,you can get them off of e-bay or Archerytalk for around $50.00 ,but you have to be quick ,because they don't sit around long.
nubo
nubo
#6
RE: what you need to refletch your arrows
Helical wraps the fletch around the shaft so it spins faster.
Straight is just straight down the shaft. I use AAE fast set gel for everything.
I too agree with BG about everything except the shaft cleaner part.
DO NOT use chemicals like acetone, alcohol, etc...to clean the shaft if you are going to use "super glues". Most people don't know this but these chemicals reduce the bonding strength of the fast set"super"glues.
Use a clean rag and only water to clean the shaft if you are going to use fast setting glues.
If you are going to use solvent based glues like Fletch-Tite then you do need to clean the shaft with acetone.
Do not rough up the shaft. It creates carbon dust and this dust gets imbeded into the "pores" oc the carbon fibers and reduces the bonding strength. A carbon shaft is plenty rough enough.
Straight is just straight down the shaft. I use AAE fast set gel for everything.
I too agree with BG about everything except the shaft cleaner part.
DO NOT use chemicals like acetone, alcohol, etc...to clean the shaft if you are going to use "super glues". Most people don't know this but these chemicals reduce the bonding strength of the fast set"super"glues.
Use a clean rag and only water to clean the shaft if you are going to use fast setting glues.
If you are going to use solvent based glues like Fletch-Tite then you do need to clean the shaft with acetone.
Do not rough up the shaft. It creates carbon dust and this dust gets imbeded into the "pores" oc the carbon fibers and reduces the bonding strength. A carbon shaft is plenty rough enough.
#8
RE: what you need to refletch your arrows
I started fletching this year and I got a bitz, it took me about 2 mins to figure it all out, its is very easy and very durable, and the metal is nice because its easy to scrape the glue off.
#9
RE: what you need to refletch your arrows
ORIGINAL: bigbulls
Helical wraps the fletch around the shaft so it spins faster.
Straight is just straight down the shaft. I use AAE fast set gel for everything.
I too agree with BG about everything except the shaft cleaner part.
DO NOT use chemicals like acetone, alcohol, etc...to clean the shaft if you are going to use "super glues". Most people don't know this but these chemicals reduce the bonding strength of the fast set"super"glues.
Use a clean rag and only water to clean the shaft if you are going to use fast setting glues.
If you are going to use solvent based glues like Fletch-Tite then you do need to clean the shaft with acetone.
Do not rough up the shaft. It creates carbon dust and this dust gets imbeded into the "pores" oc the carbon fibers and reduces the bonding strength. A carbon shaft is plenty rough enough.
Helical wraps the fletch around the shaft so it spins faster.
Straight is just straight down the shaft. I use AAE fast set gel for everything.
I too agree with BG about everything except the shaft cleaner part.
DO NOT use chemicals like acetone, alcohol, etc...to clean the shaft if you are going to use "super glues". Most people don't know this but these chemicals reduce the bonding strength of the fast set"super"glues.
Use a clean rag and only water to clean the shaft if you are going to use fast setting glues.
If you are going to use solvent based glues like Fletch-Tite then you do need to clean the shaft with acetone.
Do not rough up the shaft. It creates carbon dust and this dust gets imbeded into the "pores" oc the carbon fibers and reduces the bonding strength. A carbon shaft is plenty rough enough.
As for shafts being rough enough. How about most of the Easton ICS and Axis shafts? They're pretty glossy. What's your take on them?