I was out shooting today and I got back to some longer distances. My arrows enter the target as if they were shot from a point maybe 20' to the left of where I was actually standing - at 40 yards. I was getting a little of this at 20 yards but it is a lot worse at distance. The Eastman chart shows the arrow I'm using to be spined for a bow about 10 lbs. heavier than this one. Is that the problem? Or do I just need to move my arrow rest to the right (RH shooter)? Thx.
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Seems at 40 yards your arrows should definitely be stabilized. Do the walkback for your center shot. Put a target at the top of the bail and shoot an arrow in the center or adjust your site till it hits center. Then drop a line down from up above the center of the target and this will give you a straight up and down line from the center of the target. Then step back to 30 yards but still using your 20 yard pin shoot another arrow. Then step back to 40 yards and still using your 20 yard pin to aim at the target shoot another arrow. You keep going back till you run out of target butt to shoot at. Then go look at your arrows. IF they look like this/ with the top being your 20 yard shot and the bottom being your longest shot , then you will need to adust your center shot in toward the bow for a right handed shooter . If you need to adjust it then go back to the 20 yard and set site to hit center of target again and start going back again using just your 20 yard pin. Always move the rest in small increments , a little goes a long ways. Once you are done your arrows from shortest to longest shot should be staight up and down from each other and you will have your optimum center shot .
Seems at 40 yards your arrows should definitely be stabilized. Do the walkback for your center shot. Put a target at the top of the bail and shoot an arrow in the center or adjust your site till it hits center. Then drop a line down from up above the center of the target and this will give you a straight up and down line from the center of the target. Then step back to 30 yards but still using your 20 yard pin shoot another arrow. Then step back to 40 yards and still using your 20 yard pin to aim at the target shoot another arrow. You keep going back till you run out of target butt to shoot at. Then go look at your arrows. IF they look like this/ with the top being your 20 yard shot and the bottom being your longest shot , then you will need to adust your center shot in toward the bow for a right handed shooter . If you need to adjust it then go back to the 20 yard and set site to hit center of target again and start going back again using just your 20 yard pin. Always move the rest in small increments , a little goes a long ways. Once you are done your arrows from shortest to longest shot should be staight up and down from each other and you will have your optimum center shot .
Good Post, I was thinking the same thing, unless he's on target, but the arrows are torqued, then, I am really unsure of what is going on. I walk back tune everything, believing it tells me more specifically about how I am shooting and tuning ME to the bow.
It seems like the line of the arrow impact points, from shorter to longer distances, is pretty close to vertical. It might actually hit a little more to the right at longer distances - although the nock is better in line with the close shots, but thetip is angled off to the right maybe four or five inches from a point directly ahead of the nock. It looks like the rest is already about as far to the right as it can go; as the sight is also about slid to the right just about all the way. Is it possible the too stiff an arrow could cause this, or should I look at a quicker spin to the fletching?
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A man has got to know his limitations . . . . .
Are they pointing the same direction every time? It sounds like maybe the arrow is fishtailing it's way down range.......Which would be a tuning issue.
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Yes - they are pretty consistent in the right hand entry angle. At 20 yards, the nock winds up maybe 1.5 inches left of where the arrow enters the block. And at 40 yards, its more like four or five inches. I can actually shoot a pretty fair group with this little glitch going one, though. If I were to paper tune this bow with these arrows, I'm sure it would be leaving a big tear on theright side of where the fletching went through. Just wondering how much the too stiff of an arrow is affecting this. Or is simply a tuning issue?
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A man has got to know his limitations . . . . .
I dunno....it sounds like the arrow is flying sideways....if that makes sense......Any idea what your FOC is? If it's too light, perhaps the arrow is trying to "flip over."
Have you shot into different targets? It may just be a path of least resistance deal....they hit the target and snap sideways....
To test the stiff spine theory, turn up the poundage of the bow, if you are able.....Even 5 pounds will make a difference, and if that straightens them out, get a weaker arrow and turn the poundage back down.
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1995 Ford Ranger XL
Douglas Radial Tires
Super Blue headlights
Fiberglass front bumper
2400 pounds
I dunno....it sounds like the arrow is flying sideways....if that makes sense......Any idea what your FOC is? If it's too light, perhaps the arrow is trying to "flip over."
Have you shot into different targets? It may just be a path of least resistance deal....they hit the target and snap sideways....
To test the stiff spine theory, turn up the poundage of the bow, if you are able.....Even 5 pounds will make a difference, and if that straightens them out, get a weaker arrow and turn the poundage back down.
Good point MoBo. Roskoe, try a FOC calculator, and see how accurate your FOC is. Here's one: http://www.goldtip.com/calculators/foc.asp and here's another: http://thearcheryhut.com/calculators.php The second is an excellent archery calculator site, which I keep in my favorites, and encourage anybody who likes to crunch numbers to keep in theirs.
Your arrow sounds too stiff,assuming your bow is tuned.You can weaken the spine by putting more weight up front with a heavier point or brass insert.Other than that,you need the to buy the right spined shaft
First thing I would do is check for fletching contact,brace height, A/A and cam timing. If these are on specs next I would look at the string,arrow and sight relationship (arrow rest in full draw position) If they are not ligned up, adjust them until they are. then do your paper tuning and walk back tuning to fine tune your center shot When all of those things are in a direct line the string should be in the center of the grip which is in MY OPINION is where center shot is.
Arrows angling to the right
