Ok, for you creep tuning dual cam experts. I was reading Chuck Adams article about creep tuning for forgivness. So I hae been working with my old pse mohave. Its fast, and makes an awesome backup bow. Also figured I would make it a finger release bow. But I have always had trouble with groups and verticle grouping. Sure enough starting out, my creep forward shots were 6" high at 20 yards than my against the wall full draw shots. So I did what he said, and twisted the cable to the bottom cam. I ended up twisting 8 twists the to bottom cable to the bottom cam. Now they were both hitting in the same place as the article said, but now, flight was bad. I figured I would have to readjust the nocking point on the string. So I shot today, and my main string broke at the top cam.
The string is probably 3 years old, and about 1000 shots thru it. Do you think that the top cam coming over first put too much stress on the string there?
Maybe I over did it. Cause I do have a MZE on it and maybe the MZE requires a full draw?
I'm not any expert. But from my experience, I would replace the string ever 2 years if not every year. I have a older Jennings compound bow that I had a zebra string put on it about 5 years ago. The bow is only used for bow fishing a couple times a year. The bow is sitting upstairs on my bow rack with a broken string. Broke about half way around the top cam. My guess is your string probably had enough dry rot andit broke. I don't think its from twisting your cables to the lower cam. I'm no expert though.
I am wondering if the combination of the MZE and twisting of the strings was too much. I have a feeling that creep tuning works only with rests that do not move at all for the last 2" of draw.
Creep tuning string break
