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Old 01-04-2007, 03:56 PM   #1
mez
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Default Tuning Question

Have a question for the tuning gurus. Bowtech Allegiance, 70lbs, 29 inch draw, 340 FMJ 28 inches 125gr heads blazer vanes, trophy taker antelope rest, G-5 meta peep, whiskers and string loop, slick trick and muzzy broadheads(both shoot exactly the same).

Bought the bow in September, paper tuned after the string settled andended up movingthe rest all the way to the left to get a good tear. Is the center shot way left on these bows?Got it shooting through the paper and sighted in out to 50 yards.

Bow shoots great. Broadheads grouped with the field points out to 30 yards. At 40 yards the broadheads hit about 6 inches left of the field points? I haven't shot the broadheads at 50 yards and won't but bet it would be worse. For the season I just sighted the 40 yard pin to where the broadheads were hitting and didn't worry about it.

Now that the season is over i'm trying to figure out why? Went to the bowshop yesterday and shot through paper. At 10 yards I get a right tear, at 20 yards I get a perfect tear. I'm thinking I'm getting fletching contact with my cables, the only thing I can come up with. I can't move the rest any farther to the left, out of room. I shoot cock vane up and the only beef I have with this bow is that there is almost no cable clearance with blazer vanes. It is a fine line between keeping the fletch off of the cables or rest.

I put aSims slide on yesterday which seems tokeep the cables farther from the arrow but haven't shot yet.Had torun all over town tofind it. My pro shop was out of them.

Main questions would be why do I have good flight at 20 yards and broadheads hit left at 40 yards? Should the rest be this far to the left? Should I try a different tuning method. I like shooting and dinking with the bow so will try anything. I figure the arrows should group together at all distances and would like to get it set that way.
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:44 PM   #2
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Default RE: Tuning Question

Contact can happen with any setup, but I'm guessing that your arrows are underspined. Ya might be better off with something in a 300 spine. For a quick check just take a turn or two off the limbs and see if they fly any better, especially with the broadheads on. Then you'll know if spine is the issue.

Not totally sure about the cams on your bow. Cam lean (idler) can also cause a right tear through paper. And for your info there is no reason to shoot through paper at 20 yards. Normally the fletching has the arrow almost straightened out by ten yards. If it doesn't then you got some really big issues.

OK, for tuning you could try walk-back tuning. This is for setting centershot. It will have nothing to do with nocking point location. It really sounds like your rest is too far left. That's another reason your arrows are flying to the left the farther away from the bow you get. Walk-back tune it.
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Old 01-05-2007, 07:07 PM   #3
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Default RE: Tuning Question

I walk back tuned it before I paper tuned it BG. I wasn't even going to shoot it through paper. After I walk back tuned it the broadheads were hitting way left of the field points. Went and shot through paper and moved the rest to the left until I got a good tear.

After that the broadheads and field points group out to 30 but not at 40.
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:52 PM   #4
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Default RE: Tuning Question

mez.

How far are you from Ft Worth?
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:04 PM   #5
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Default RE: Tuning Question

It definately sounds like a spine issue,but I dont think it is.My program is showing you dead on with your setup.Unless you are drawing longer than what you think.Do you know your speed and I could tell you for sure if spine is an issue.


It might be a torque issue.You might have to address your grip. I don't know for sure but just making observations.


This is exactly the type of problems that occur when you compromise centershot for good paper.


Don't bandaid by moving the rest,fix it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:22 AM   #6
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Default RE: Tuning Question

Ausie, about 3 hours. Would be willing to travel for some tips help if I have a free weekend. You ever get to any shoots around Central TX?

According to the Easton guide I'm getting a stiff spine reaction, not weak.

So I think I fixed it over the weekend. Just forgot all about the paper and walk back tuned. Then tuned to the broadheads at 30 and 40 yards. Moved the rest until the broadheads and field points are impacting the same. I moved the rest in toward the bow but it still looks to be too far left. Guess with good flight I won't worry about it.

I only ruined 2 arrows shooting groups with the broadheads, why I didn't want to tune it that way.

The Sims slide definately gave me more cable clearance.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:24 AM   #7
 
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Default RE: Tuning Question

I'm guessing cam lean. Have someone stand behind you at full draw and see if the cams are tilted to one side. It's been an issue for BowTech and it's particularly hard to correct with the Binary cam setup.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:33 AM   #8
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Default RE: Tuning Question

put lipsick on you vanes , youll know wear the contact is , even slight contact is unacceptable

I genrally find that if broadheads hit together out to 30 yards , they do so out to 50 allso . A 6 inch diferance between 30 and 40 yards does not sound right , you might try moveing your rest to the right , and rotateting you cablerod to get clearance , if thats posable . Blazers have a high profile , and thats a drawback when trying to get clearance , one of the many resons Im still shootn feathers .
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Old 01-09-2007, 05:09 PM   #9
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Default RE: Tuning Question

BT's with the binary cams have trouble tuning with a rest that requires you to serve the cord into your cable. Most guys have went with the Limb Driver , the New Whammy or the QAD. Somehow it affects the timing and such on these bows. I've changed out a few at the shop and that corrects the problem.
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Old 01-09-2007, 05:13 PM   #10
 
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Default RE: Tuning Question

No issues with MZE either
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