Hello, I have been kicking around the idea of archery hunting for a few years now and never put it in place. Well now that my neighbor was talking about it for next year I think it has helped me decide on weather or not to do it.
I am not looking for the best set up, I already have an older PSE compound bow and would like to get some arrows for it but want to get the right ones.
The question is how do you know what # arrows to get? What is the formula to figure that out? I am sure I will need to know more info on the bow to be sure. The arrows that I have are Easton superlite XX75 2514 but am not sure if they are what I want or need.
Anyone know of a website with this kind of info on it would be great.
I personally would not recomend 2514 for hunting applications however others may.
there are a lot of choices and a lot of opinions concerning this subject
first of all the most inportant thing about selecting the proper spined srrow is to know how many pounds of draw weight the bow is pulling and the draw length
Most arrow manufacturers web sites will have an arrow selection chart if you know the following information.
the rest is really personal preference
if I were to advise you on which brandarrows to buy I would presonally recomend Easton or Carbon Revolution
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The common mistake people make when attempting to design something completely Idiot proof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete Idiots.
Chances are if the bow is old that it will need some attention.String probably needs to be replaced,etc.
Try and find a good pro shop in your area and they can help get the bow setup FOR YOU.
There is a chance the bow will not fit you and you may need to try and find one that does.
If you walk into a shop and the first thing they say is that you need a new bow because the old one is junk,I suggest turning around and not going back.
But if they look at it seriously and try to make it work for you and maybe they can't make it work but atleast they try,you probably have a good shop.
You've been away from archery for a while . . . The greatest thing to come along since the pocket on a shirt is the carbon arrow!
They are very durable (unlike some in the early days). But the best reason in my mind, is that they are always straight!
With aluminum, they may even look and test straight but can have a slight bow to them. With carbons, they are either straight, or broke.
As far as which arrow????
Any arrow selection chart will have to know cam type, poundage, weight of field point/broadhead, and draw length.
I agree that you should go to reputable bow shop and talk to them. Have them look over your bow. If they are reputable, their first concern will be to answer your questions and not to sell you a bunch of stuff!
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I want to leave this world like my Grandpa . . .
Happy and asleep.
Not kicking and screaming like everyone else in the car!
But the best reason in my mind, is that they are always straight!
With aluminum, they may even look and test straight but can have a slight bow to them. With carbons, they are either straight, or broke.
Biggest myth in Archery pretty much. And one of the reasons you hear about people getting injured with them. They just assume they are ok because they visually look alright. Carbons can and do break down and lose straightness and spine over time. Heck some are not that great right of the box. Truth is aluminums have much better quality control and tolerances for the money. Both are good arrows, but for the money aluminums are better out of the box unless you buy fairly expensive carbons.
Take a dozen 60 dollar carbons and a dozen simular priced aluminums and put them on an arrow spinner and see what happens. I think you will be shocked.
Like the others said, in order to know what arrow you should start with you would need to know the peak draw weight of the bow, how effecient the cam or cams are and your draw length. Also what length arrows you want to use and the point weight.
Some of the online calculators are ok, but not real great since they don't ask for enough information.
If you knew what your actual draw weight was (measured on a pull scale), your AMO draw length (Again, measured the proper way, not what it says on the limb) and the year and model of the bow I could put it in an archery program that selects arrow spine for you. Even better yet would be if you could shoot an arrow thru a chronograph a few times and give me the average speed and weight of the arrow. This lets you know how effecient the bow is and you can calculate things better. Other wise you are just sort of guessing.
Paul
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I didn't climb to the top of the food chain to eat carrots! (Ron White)
(carbon arrows)are very durable (unlike some in the early days). But the best reason in my mind, is that they are always straight!
This is the sort of information dispersed on forums that, unless challenged properly, people take for gospel. I've even seen it in magazines and recently showed the author the err in the statement "always straight." The author printed a retraction and gave me credit for "setting me (him) straight."
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With aluminum, they may even look and test straight but can have a slight bow to them. With carbons, they are either straight, or broke.
Whether it be aluminum or carbon, either may "look straight". 'Proper' testing will give you correct data on both straightness and spine.
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Any arrow selection chart will have to know cam type, poundage, weight of field point/broadhead, and draw length.
Arrow charts are ONLY an indicator of what you need in an arrow. Proper selection, as Paul indicated, goes way beyond what the charts dictate. Proper tuning and advanced tuningafter proper chart analysis is the best approach for choosing the 'right' arrow.
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If they are reputable, their first concern will be to answer your questions and not to sell you a bunch of stuff!
This statement leaves a lot to interpretation.Many people, regretfully, think thatthey can go into a PROShopas an unknown and ask a lot of questions without buying anything. Theproblem is that PRO Shop owners get inundated with phone calls and 'drop ins' all the time with nothing but questions. Sometimes they get 'hardened' by this approach and automatically through up 'walls'. After all, it's their livelihood and they, like otherhard workers, have to feed their families. I'm not saying that they won't or shouldn't answer some questions, but there may be a limit to their benevolence.
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Honesty - vital to long-term relationships/friendships
I agree.I have personally been in Len's shop and have watched him be pounded with questions only to have the person leave his shop and probably go straight to Bass Pro with what he has told them just to save a few bucks.And most of the time his prices are comparable or even lower.[&:]
Need advice on getting the right arrows
