Well, this weekend was total hell for me. It started off well...kinda
My Vectrix came in last Thursday. Saturday morning I was at the shop bright and early to setup.
All was going well, I liked the feel and I loved the draw cycle...very nice.
Then, we began to put it through paper. This is where the issues began. We were getting about a 1/2" nock high tear, so we adjusted the rest. This made a small difference, and left us with a 1/4" nock high tear. This was as close as we got. We tried everything, we reset and put on new tied nocks, we adjusted the rest, we even took everything off and started over....still, the same 1/4" nock high tear.
We then began to suspect a cam timing issue, so we gave the cable a few twists. The tear got alot better, but I started to notice the tell tale signs of a twisted cable...higher draw #, less letoff, and on hell of a small valley. We added 5 more twists, and the bow was shooting PERFECT bulletholes...but here is the problem.
All the features I like about the bow are gone with the twisted cable. The letoff is really low, the draw seems really stiff, and the valley isnt there at all. If I relax at fulldraw even a little, she wants to jump and let an arrow fly. Basically, she is shooting bulletholes, but I dont want to shoot it like this.
I should also note we didnt twist the string at all, since I had run out of time the owner told me to take it home, blank bale shoot it for a week, let it settle in, then come back and we can start over. He even said it might be possible to twist the string a little to get the draw to be a little shorter so I might have less of a problem at full draw.
With that all said, I was also wondering if a 1/4" nock high tear is that big of a deal. It was a fairly consistent tear, and the owner said he liked how the arrow was going into the target...I am just anal retentive about tuning, and love a perfect bullethole everytime. All suggestions would be great!!!!!
Also, I used four different kinds of arrow in the same legnth, so I dont think it is a spine issue, all were tearing about the same.
Here are the specs for the setup as it is NOW
Hoyt Vectrix, 27" @ 65.5#
Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 250's.
NAP 2000 Dropaway
String loop, serving nocks, and a Tru Ball Illuminator release.
Any and all advice please...I want to tune this bow so it fits me perfect, but I want to have that draw I love with the letoff and valley I loved too.
Thanks in advance all.
Have a nice one.
Ps...Asides from these issues, I liked the Vectrix more than the Drenaline.
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Though I may not agree with what you say, I will defend to the death your right to say it.
Shoot it for a week and let the strings/cables settle in like they suggested. Any changes made to timing, etc will change after the strings are settled, so might as well get them settled and then worry about it. Put a good 200 shots through it and then start to worry about this stuff.
Once this is done, if I were you I would recommend starting to work with Mark now if you want to get coached and the first thing he will do is get that tuned and fitting you perfect. This is the time of year to tear your form apart, etcnow that season is over. Mark is the most technical person there and probably the best guy in the area when it comes to C/P/S or Cam and 1/2 systems and he can help get this sorted out and making sure it fits you perfect. If you need his contact info, let me know and I will pass it on.
Spine isn't the problem either, that would cause left or right tears, not high/low tears. Your problem lies in rest position, timing, tiller, etc.
my hoyt had a timing problem as well adn would tear no matter waht and no bosy around here could fix that....but when i went to Illinois there was a guy up there that did not believe in paper tuning and takes his time on stuff. Let me tell you that my broadheads have never shot better with the bow and it has never shot better so if ya need his phone number or something just let me know and i will shoot you his number so you could Q&A him mabey on the problem
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How close did you have the paper when you were shooting through it? Most are recommending now that you have the paper 10 yards away from you, and if you shoot it up close you want a 1/2" high tear....
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remember bullet holes are just a starting point ! try one thing for me try different nocks. I seen this screw up alot of tuning. my bow now with the nocks i got on it shoots great ! If I put the CX nocks on it shoots 3 inches to the left !! IT'S TRUE[:'(]
ORIGINAL: Rick James
Spine isn't the problem either, that would cause left or right tears, not high/low tears.
You know more about this stuff than I do. But I always read that the above statement is only valid for finger shooters due to "archers paradox". A mechanical release flexes the arrow in the vertical plane only, correct?
Rick, are you talking about Mark from Spring Valley Sportsmen. I am thinking about taking aa trip up there to shoot a Vectrix this winter. I have been there a few times to shoot at his techno hunt. Whats your experience with him, good and bad. I'm just trying to see if its worth going up there and gicing him the business or going to a place that is a little closer.
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Rick, are you talking about Mark from Spring Valley Sportsmen. I am thinking about taking aa trip up there to shoot a Vectrix this winter. I have been there a few times to shoot at his techno hunt. Whats your experience with him, good and bad. I'm just trying to see if its worth going up there and gicing him the business or going to a place that is a little closer.
No, I am talking about about Mark Meyers, he is NAA and NFAA certified as a coach. He has helped me tremendously and given me a lot of direction.
ORIGINAL: Rick James
Spine isn't the problem either, that would cause left or right tears, not high/low tears.
You know more about this stuff than I do. But I always read that the above statement is only valid for finger shooters due to "archers paradox". A mechanical release flexes the arrow in the vertical plane only, correct?
The few times I have seen spine make a bad tear it was always left/right.
with that bow, instead of twisting the cable you did, you could have untwisted the other cable. that way the things you lost would have actually gotten bigger, and the effect to the camsrelative position toone another would haveended upthe same.
with a hoyt you want the cams getting stopped at exactly the same time at full draw for starters. after that, many folks take a twist (or 2)out of the control cable to make the valley a hair bigger, and because they shoot good that way. not sure if the new cam will be that way, but the first paragraph still applies. a static yoke (instead of what comes on it)also helps so you can get the string coming off the cams straight at full draw.
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Hoyt Vectrix=Pain to tune?
