Could someone tell me what equipment is needed and a close approximation of the costs involved in getting started. I know a little bit, high speed saw, fletching jig...but I know I would need a list with all the little things. Several people at this site have recommended I start making my own, so I thought I would see what is involved.
Arrow saw to cut your arrows. $20 Harbor freight saw and a homemade jig.
G5 arrow squaring device $35
Fletching jig $30-50
Fletchings $10-20
Glue $3-10
Fletching strippers are nice but a pocket knife works just as well.
That's about it. All those prices are apporx. I was trying to go off the top of my head.
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2008 HNI Bow Contest Team #35 Top Pin Predators
I highly recommend Goat Tuff for your inserts, Bohning Platinum for your vanes/feathers, and then a bottle of acetone, a roll of paper towels, and some q-tips. This should be everything you need! Plan for another $30 or so for this stuff....other than that this is all you need!
And a little skill, I take it...LOL I appreciate the reply's. This might be something I would like to do. And it doesn't seem to really be that expensive.
"If you want something done right, do it yourself." That's why I started rolling my own ages ago, it really doesn't take any special skills, they're hardly even marketable skills. I used to just have the shop where I bought my shafts cut them for me which saved the expense of a saw. If you buy your shafts elsewhere you'll probably pay a very modest fee ($0.25/shaft?) to have them cut. I highly recommend the Jo-Jan 6 arrow if you plan on doing any volume but if you're going to just do a dozen a year or so, the Jo-Jan single works fine.
I personally use hot glue melt sticks to secure inserts. I can get 10 sticks for about $2 and that'll last year 5 years. If one doesnt seat well, put a field point in the insert, heat up the field point, and turn to reseat. Cant do that with superglue/goat tuff.
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Dear, Mr. Trophy Hunter - I just shot the buck you passed up.
Proud member of the Quality Deer Mis-Management Association
I personally use hot glue melt sticks to secure inserts. I can get 10 sticks for about $2 and that'll last year 5 years. If one doesnt seat well, put a field point in the insert, heat up the field point, and turn to reseat. Cant do that with superglue/goat tuff.
I have had really bad luck with hot melt.......lost 8 of the 12 inserts I originally put in my hunting arrows this year in morrell bags because of the stuff. Then I used gold tips glue for inserts and no more problems. You can actually pour a bit of acetone in the nock end of the shaft and let it sit like that (some will drain, put it in a place with this in mind). Then I can get them out with pliers on the tip if/when I need to. Usually I don't have a problem though, I just spin them and take the true ones and use those for broadheads, and the ones that don't spin are used for field points.
I have had really bad luck with hot melt.......lost 8 of the 12 inserts I originally put in my hunting arrows this year in morrell bags because of the stuff. Then I used gold tips glue for inserts and no more problems. You can actually pour a bit of acetone in the nock end of the shaft and let it sit like that (some will drain, put it in a place with this in mind). Then I can get them out with pliers on the tip if/when I need to. Usually I don't have a problem though, I just spin them and take the true ones and use those for broadheads, and the ones that don't spin are used for field points.
Try the hot melt made especially for rod tips
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Dear, Mr. Trophy Hunter - I just shot the buck you passed up.
Proud member of the Quality Deer Mis-Management Association
dont get the harbor freight type saw i got it (advertised arrow saw) and it just doesnt keep the rpms up under load and burs and sometimes splits the end of the cut. cabelas has a great saw for only 99$ and its a real arrow saw with measurements on it.
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Reflex Grizzly 64#
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