That is the easiest solution. I don't know that model, but some of the older bows didn't have as much of a cut out than the newer ones do. So it wouldn't hurt to cut your arrows a bit longer. Many still do this just because they don't like the idea of the broad being near their hand, or being able to put their hand infront of it.
I know a guy that will absolutely not use an arrow unless it hangs at least an inch past his risor. He was using shorter arrows with broad heads once and got his finger up in the way. Put a big old slice in his finger when the arrow left the bow.
Not the arrows fault he had bad form, but none the less it's something to consider. I shoot longer arrows than I need, but it's not because of that. I just like a particular arrow and I need to cut them long to get them to spine right for my set up.
Paul
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Longer shafts would fix it, but I'm imagining that you want to keep your current arrows this close to the deer season. I like them longer myself.
Is there enough room to rotate all of you rpoint inserts so that the blades are oriented in such a way as to give you maximum clearance? Would that give you enough room if they were rotated just right? I'm guessing you may have thought of this already, but if you have a 3 blade head, it just might work.
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Had the same problem till I went mechanical.
Had to insert broadhead and tighten, Heat insert and twist till clearance was made.A dangerous pain in the arse.
Longer shafts would fix it, but I'm imagining that you want to keep your current arrows this close to the deer season. I like them longer myself.
Is there enough room to rotate all of you rpoint inserts so that the blades are oriented in such a way as to give you maximum clearance? Would that give you enough room if they were rotated just right? I'm guessing you may have thought of this already, but if you have a 3 blade head, it just might work.
Agree, either rotate the point insert if you can heat them and spin them, if not shooting a bisquit why not rotate the arrow nock so the blades clear?
Are you sure the rest is center shot rather than paper tuned to possible torquing? There can be a difference. Again, another reason I'm a fan of the laser tuning that Greg / MO did a review on. You can eyeball it by loading an arrow, looking down your string and estimating your limb bolts. Or from the front, perhaps your rest is too far in?
Something doesn't sound right. A normal sized broadhead should not hit the riser on a mid 90's bow. Paper tuning for center shot, just doesn't hack it, in my opinion. If it really had to be set that far in, I would guess that your spine is off significantly. If it isn't spine, I'd start looking for limb twist or a bent riser. In fact, I'd look for those first.
If everything appears okay with the bow, I would bareshaft test some arrows (with field tips) to check for proper spine. Only after I'd made adjustments in draw weight to match the arrow spine, would I find the centershot (by walk-back tuning).
Absolutely! add a 1/2 inch in length and you'll be good to go .I had this very problem last season . This seasonI added 1/2 inch to my arrow's and thing's are good now .If your not sure,maybe you have a friend or a bowshop near by that has some arrow's that are a bit longer than your's that you might try first before cutting new arrow's.
Broadheads hitting riser
, but none the less it's something to consider. I shoot longer arrows than I need, but it's not because of that. I just like a particular arrow and I need to cut them long to get them to spine right for my set up.
