everything was taken

I have seen this question asked before on a few other forums, so I apologize in advance. It just seems there are so many things people say its hard to keep track of it all.

I shoot a PSE Bruin, 28 inch draw 60 lbs. I have been practicing all summer with 100 grain field points and I group well out to 30 yards. Now that there is only a couple weeks until opening Archery I wanted to try broadheads.
My understanding was just to practice with the grain FP you BH will be, then when it comes close to season, take a few shots with BH and fine tune your sights to them. Shooting the same grain FP should put you pretty close to your BH...

So far I have tried 3 types of Broadheads, with my pin configuration Ive been using for FP.

G5 Montec 100 grain - about 4 inches left and 2 inches low
Thunderhead 100 grain - about 9 inches left and 12 inches low
Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain - about 4 inches left and 2 inches low

All shots taken at 20 yards....I even tried using different shafts (of the same kind) on the same BH to eliminate the chance of shooting a bad shaft.

I dont care what broadhead I use, as long as it effieciently will kill game... but my question is are the BH normally this much off from the same grain FP?

If so, do I simply adjust my sights to whichever BH is closest to FP and shut up about it? Or is somthing else wrong? I dont have any problems consistently grouping FP, and my bow was just taken to the Archery shop last week and "everything looks good".

I have heard certain heads shoot better out of certain bows... if this is the case any reccomendations on a PSE Bruin? I realize there are different opinions and everyone thinks there way is right...any help will be appreciated!!!!!

Lunker hunter

http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics/broadhead_flight/Hope this helps.

Dubbya

This isn't uncommon at all. You need to tune your rest for broadheads. Fixed blade broadheads magnify the imperfections when a rest is out of tune. Actually any bow with any rest that is out of tune will not group broadheads and fieldpoints together. Tuning your rest will also mean that your arrow is flying straighter and you will get maximum penetration. If your arrow is not flying true, you lose penetration because all the energy of the shaft is not deposited directly into the back of the broadhead. Tuning can at times be frustrating but be patient.

download this PDF file and follow the directions in the Broadhead tuning section, it'll work for you.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp

Also, what you do NOT want to do is to shoot mechanicals because the other heads won't group. I would say the majority of hunter's that shoot mechanicals do it to mask a poorly tuned rest.

Bulzeye

Agreed, the problem is tuning, and it is common.
You just can't predict how the BHs are going to fly without trying them out.

First, make sure that each head spins true on it's arrow, and then don't touch it. Taking it off and then puting it back on can affect things.

Follow the Easton tuning guides BH tuning section, and you'll be just fine.
It usually doesn't take too much playing around to correct it, so make small adjustments each time so that you don't overshoot themagical sweetspot.

Montana Bob

I am the minority. I shoot a super fast bow with 80 lbs. My bow is tuned properly, but I'll be damned if I can get a fixed blade to group consistant.I think it's just the speed of the arrow.
My NAP Shockwaves do great and I can easly take a Turkey head off at20 yards and have always been complete pass throughs on Deer. If you look at the pic here you are looking at the exit wound through the shoulder. Shot was about 25 yards. Was able to remove the arrow and broadhead from a branch, resharpen and reuse again.
They work for me.

Bradkoz

no matter how tuned you are a broahead and filed tip WILL NOT fly the same. may group or hit where you want but watch some slow motion of the flight its erattic the vanes are always fighting against the blades. slim designed mechnicals are the only thing close to a field tip and be careful because some of the mechnicals are so fat or have so much sticking out of them you might as well shoot fixed. ive shot more deer then i can remeber with mechniacals and ive yet to loose a deer or have a head not open on impact. putting the arrow where it should be is more valuable then anything else because really if you put a field tip in the vitals of a deer it would die. theres nothing like the peace of mind knowing its gonna hit where you aim. my last 15 deer i can remeber i only tracked 3 and they went less then 100yds and thats with only a 1.25" cut no need for the big ones but if you tend to make bad shots (my brother is notorious for shooting too far back) the bigger cut head will help out.

DougE

I beg to differ.My bow shoots 294 fps andI can get several different fixed bladed broadheads to shoot to the same point of impact as my fieldpoints.You need to shoot a strait arrow with no wobble in the broadhead.You need to have total fletch clearance.You need to shoot an arrow that is spined correctly and you need to have a well tuned bow.You also have to have good shooting form.To except anything less is unexceptable.

heeze gutshot shortee

tune up