Centershot setup?

[Slackdaddy]

Looking to setup a new rest on My used bow (never checked centershot before).
I cannot find any "gauge" to set true centershot.
"Centershot" is 3 points in a line: string at full draw, string at rest, and the arrow rest.

I cannot find any gauges that check these 3 points, can some one point me in the right direction.

Manythanks.
Nick

[Paul L Mohr]

I know of no way to check center shot at full draw other than shooting the arrow. You can either shoot it thru paper, bare shaft tune or broad head tune.

Paul

[Rob/PA Bowyer]

The Laser tuner but I don't see the point. If your rest is on center, it's on center at full draw as well.

[TFOX]

This is one big advantage of a Hooter Shooter.You can adjust cam lean out and check true center with a lazer off of your cams at full draw.I am not talking about the cheap lazer centershot finder like the onesRedhead sells.I am talking about the one that Spott Hog sells that will help align the cams and then you can check true center.


Rob,you would be surprised how many bows can get way out of wack when drawn,especially if there is bad cam lean.There can be occasions where there islimb flex that causes things to shift.


Granted,for a hunting bow,90% of the time setting the bow at rest will do fine but there are a few times when a bow just will not tune properly and being able to check the bow at full draw will tell you alot about what is goin on.


I am not advising everyone take there hunting bow out and spend $100.00 to have it setup on a machine but they do have their advantages from time to time.



Slackdaddy,I realize this doesn't exactly answer your question but I am not sure if anyone makes something that will check centershot at full draw without using a lazer and shooting machine of some sort.I don't know if you can use the cheap center finder that Redhead sell that connects to the limb bolts for this or not.I doubt that it would be accurate.

[Rob/PA Bowyer]

Rob,you would be surprised how many bows can get way out of wack when drawn,especially if there is bad cam lean.There can be occasions where there islimb flex that causes things to shift.

Oh yes, very true TFOX but they are seperate issues over and above simple center shot your rest.

[nodog]

Here's how I do it. I use a straight edge and lay it on the bow limbs where I can measure the nock end as close as I can, (from the edge to the arrow) then slide it down the limbs as close to the rest as I can and set it the same as the nock end. My limbs are flat and parallel and I use a 4' level. Gets medead onand then I tune it.No guessing! No looking down the limbs!You can make a jig to do it on any bow. No big deal.

[Slackdaddy]

Nodog,
That is assuming that the face of the limbs are 90deg angle from the "draw of the bow", or travel of the string.
Bottom line is: the "center shot" (center of the arrow rest) should be in line with the "travel of the string" from full draw to "string at rest".
No "squaring off of the limbs" or "lining up with the cams" is going to tell You this. The center line of the arrow travel could change with how one grips the bow.

So if I want to set true center on the arrow rest, I guess I will have to fab my own jig.

Slack

[nodog]

Yep, you could do that with a crank board.

I guess I don't see the need although I can understand the desire. What benifit do you think will come of it? I really am curious!

[Paul L Mohr]

Unless the jig involves you drawing the bow it won't work. The center shot will change when you draw the bow compared to when a machine does it. This is what tuning does. You set center shot to, well center in order to get you started. Then you tune from there to fine tune it to your form.

Paul

[Slackdaddy]

ORIGINAL: nodog

Yep, you could do that with a crank board.

I guess I don't see the need although I can understand the desire. What benifit do you think will come of it? I really am curious!

To take the center shot (rest adjustment) out of the equation going into paper tuning. I have a used Darton Excel, the rest and sight are up against the riser ( I only see about 1/4" of the pins showing).
I am putting a new string and reston it and starting from zero.

The jig would be an adjustablestraight edge clamped/bolted to the riser,
check distance from string to straight edge at rest and full draw, adjust straight edge till this measurment is the same. then set center of the rest the same distance from straight edge.
This would put the rest exactly inline with the string/arrow travel as "I draw the bow"

Maybe I am to "Anal"

Slack