Man, you guys with all your tech talk have blown my mind! I never even thought about it before, but here goes...
I was shooting an old(mid-eighties?)70# Golden Eagle compound,it broke, I've got a late seventies Ben Pearson 60# compound in the mail. I went to Sports Authority. I started with the cheapest aluminum arrows I could find, 2117 Gold Stalker 30-1/4"with Carbon Express pig points which I broke off all the sections, leaving 95 grains. After about6 months, I've got 2 left, 3 lost and 4 broken/bent beyond repair. I thought the aluminum just wasn't strong enough for the compound bow's force, so about a month ago I bought 3- 29"Carbon Rebel 45 60 arrows and put 100 grain TriLoc broadheads on them, one broke and was replaced with a pigpoint but now I left one section on so it is also 100 grains. The carbons shoot to the right(I shoot LH). They also leave NO room to play, the back of the broadhead is touching the arrow rest when I shoot.
I never "tuned" the Eagle,but I dideye the arrow rest to thebow center, square the nocking point to the string and set the pin sights for 35, 50, 65 and 80 yards.
So I want to ask a question, but I don't even know where to start! When the Ben Pearson gets here, will carbon rebel arrows be alright, or else what would be a good arrow? For tuning, I found what seems like 5000 pages of instructions at the Easton website, Surely not...
I could go on and on with questions, but lets just leave it at "I'm lost" and would appreciate any beginer's advice ya'll can give!
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"God is dead"- Hitler
"Hitler is dead"- God
ok, where to start. Still dont know much about the bow specs so it's hard to give any specific advice. And, you dont need that much distance in your pins. Set them starting at 20, and only go to about 50, maybe 60. Make sure all of your arrows are the same, otherwise they wont be consistent. Give us a few more specs about the bow and we can help you out more.
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Taste the cold, feel the music.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot- When I got the bow, it had about a 20" draw length, so using a 5 foot bar clamp in my shop, I squeezed the ends together to relieve the pressureand moved the cables from the closest together grooves in the cam to the furthest apart, giving me the full draw length.
I thought I was getting pretty good with accuracy, I seem to have a bit of aptitude for this, but like with anything else I want to be the best that Ican if I'm going to do it, thus the study/research and questions...
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"God is dead"- Hitler
"Hitler is dead"- God
Part of the problem is that you have your priorities backwards. If you want good performance and good flight from your arrows then you don't buy the cheapest. Something mid-gradewill suffice. If you are losing them then get closer to your intended target.
As for tuning, it's absolutely necessary with any baow/arrow combination. Probably the best place to get started on it is from Easton's website. Download their tuning guide and follow the directions from basic setup up though tuning. How far you go on the tuning issue will be determined upon your shooting ability.
The jargon used should be easy enough for anybody to follow as most parts of a bow and accessories used have not changed much over the years. A nockset is a nockset, just as it was 30 years ago, etc. Then if you still have questions then it's time to come back and ask some more. Of course, a trip to a local club or shop can't hurt a thing either. Your success will be determined by your sincerity in wanting to learn.
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Martin Silver Star Shooter
UBP Life Member
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First things first. This statement CANNOT be a question. You must have the proper draw length and know what it is. Your arrow should be AT LEAST 1" beyond the rest, not with the back edge of the blades touching it. Second, make sure you have the proper spine for the poundage you are shooting. As slow as that bow is shooting, the highest quality arrow just isn't necessary. As long as the arrows you have are of proper spine, they will be ok. Once you have that part situated, head to your pro shop for some paper tuning. Oh, what type of rest are you using, and are you using a release or fingers?
Very, very long story short, start off at about 3 yards. Ensuring you are using proper form, shoot a few arrows through the paper. If you are getting a tail left tare, (this is the one that always confuses me, you are either overspined or under, can't member which) change the tip weight. For underspined, go lighter, for overspined, go heavier. If that doesn't help, move your rest to the left. This will bring the tip of the arrow to the left more in line w/ the fletch. Do exactly the opposite for a tail right tear.
Now, if it is shooting tail high, lower your nock point. If it's shooting tail low, raise your nock point, making very small adjustments. By small, I mean 1/16" or less. When you get a perfect hole, or a slight tail high tear, move the paper downrange to about 10 yards, and do it all again. Once you get a perfect bullet hole in paper at 10 yards, your bow is tuned.
Also ensure you are not making any fletching contact w/ the rest, that is, unless you are using a whisker buscuit. Fletching will "bounce" off the rest sending the arrow flying in all sorts of unrecoverable spins.
The single most important aspect of the arrow is proper spine. Once you get that right, it's downhill from there.
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Arrows are like women. You can just never have too many.
There are things you can do to make the set up better like new strings. Seems like you are the kind of guy that say's "I'm not going to spend that kind of money on that". Was there myself. Try setting some goals and see if you can reach them, if you can reach farther if you want. If you can't then try and figure out what you need by observing what's the problem, ask questions if you need too and go shopping.
If it's hunting your aiming to do, hope to hear that you took something with yourrig.
Seems like you are the kind of guy that say's "I'm not going to spend that kind of money on that".
It's not that I mind spending money on it if Ineed to, but after ten years of building I'm back in school working on an architecture degree. So I've saved enough to be comfortable, but not extravagant. I've also seen so many people go out and spend thousands on a new hobby, only to let it drop 6 months later! So when I get interested in something new, I try not to go overboard, buy some used or cheap equipment and make sure its something I'm going to stick with before I makethe big purchase. This past spring I bought a sweet new mountain bike, but I've been riding trails daily (weather permiting) for 3-4 years (following a broken foot -two years in a row), so I can justify the expense. I see a lot of enjoyment coming out of archery, also, so I'll try to go hunting this year, keep shooting targets, and assuming I feel the same buy a nicer bow next summer in time to practice and be comfortable enough to use it in next year's hunting season!
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"God is dead"- Hitler
"Hitler is dead"- God
Nothing wrong w/ being conservative. It's wise not to toss one's hard earned money out the window. Oddly enough in this situation, however, I feel you would find archery even MORE enjoyable w/ a "good" bow. Yes, the one you have will throw an arrow and kill a deer, no question. Today's bows are just so much fun to shoot!!
So, how's the tuning going? You getting it worked out?
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Arrows are like women. You can just never have too many.
"I'm back in school working on an architecture degree"
After reading the header and your original post I didn't expect you to be after an architectural degree. You should be up on mumbo-jumbo.
Most likely your spent on school and don't care to read any more tech stuff, but the info available is really helpful and worth the read. Howard Hills "Hunting the hard way" is a good one to get you started.
To give you a little help if you've made it this far reading this post. Those arrows will fly and you could get some different ones Gold Tip xt's are good and not too expensive. Use the 4" duravane with a 100 grain head. After you think they are hitting the target put a fixed blade broadhead on and see what happens. You need a target for those heads. I use a King target that cost 29 bucks from Keystone country store, it's an online store and they have plenty of other things. It really is hard to tell if your equipment is right if you don't shoot well. Having someone who does would help narrow things down. It's amazing how your arrows flight is effected by the release. I've tried focusing on many different things to shoot better, I'm currently focusing on the pin and letting the target be in the back ground. I was doing the opposite and discovered that in doing so my pin was morphing into 2 spots giving an inconsistent group of arrows. Your feet placement is also important so try different stances to find the most stable one for you. If your going to hunt practising in the manner and surrounds you expect, itwill make filling the tag much more possible. If it's from a tree then do it as you would. Remember a stand is small so you have to perch and shoot under pressure. Best to get used to some of it before it happens.
Sorry, kind a long for a guy who's in school.Tried to just keep it simple.
confused by arrows and Technical mumbo-jumbo!
