sight vs rest vs knocks

tschaef · 06-20-2006, 03:37 PM

I just brought home my 1st Wisker Biscuit (Deluxe Qs), I love the idea of not worrying about the arrow falling out of the rest anymore.

My bow is a ProLine Sniper, its a small bow that I bought because it felt good, and allows for my freakishly short draw length (I'm 5'10" and only draw 26").

Heres my problem, I installed theWB and quickly noticed that it was too low, and the arrow pointed down, (not perpendicular to the string). I maxed out the vertical adjustment and it wasn't enough, so I started adjusting my sights. I can probably use the remaining adjustment on my sights to get back on target, but I'm worried that I'll be losing speed/energy shooting this way.

Am I right, should the arrow be perpindicular to the string when sitting in the rest and the bow not drawn (single cam bow)?
Would splitting the distance between axels tell me where the knocks should be on the string?
If I were to max out my sights and get back on target, then have a friend take a picture of me at full draw, would that help you guys help me?

I'd really appreciate any help I can get, I'm sure I can get back on paper, but I'd like to use all my bows potential.

paka · 06-21-2006, 03:18 AM

tschaef,
You may get alot of grief for your W.B , but My Drop Tine rules . Had you previously shot this bow?? If so use that knocking point and line up rest so arrow is horizontal from knock to arrow tip. If the rest cant be level on your bow through up a pic so we can see .
1)nock arrow
2)tighten rest so arrow is 90 degrees , from string to arrow.
3) fine tune.
I amjust a novice at this bow stuff , just trying to help if I can

. Dont give up w/ the bisquit , also try 2 in Blazer vanes and a dab of super glue on the front tip of your fletching.

tschaef · 06-21-2006, 03:59 AM

Thats my problem Paka, I can't get the arrow horizontal using the WB adjustments alone, I need to move my knocks, but don't want to because I've shot the bow as it is for a few years now.
I'll get some pics up when I get back from work.

HuntingEd · 06-21-2006, 06:18 AM

If you dont have your arrow at a 90 to the string you'll be shooting poor groups... especially if you shoot fixed blade broadheads. Your arrow will "straighten" itself out using the fletching, the only problem is it will "dolphin" through the air until it stabilizes... which wont happen until the arrow slows down enough (usually at a long range). Changing your sights to match the arrrow is not the right way to do it. I had a similar problem w/ my WB last year... I had to move my nocking point down, which is what you need to do.... If you dont want to i suggest getting a new rest... I switched from the WB to a QAD ultrarest... It wasa great improvement, my groups are better, and its easier to tune. You get the same total containment as the WB plus a drop away feature. I had to adjust my nocking pt when i switched rests... Used a bow square to get it at a 90, then paper tuned... It was only after my bow was properly tuned that i adjusted my sights.

Also, your proshop might have some type of spacer it could put on the riser that would allow you to increase the vertical adjustment of the WB.

gibblet · 06-21-2006, 07:27 AM

is the arrow even with the holes the rest is screwed into on the riser? these are called the berger button holes. i'm guessing that your nock position is too high.

ijimmy · 06-21-2006, 08:04 AM

As gibblet has said your arrow should be even with the berger button , or rest screw , as far as perpendicular , most have their nock 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch high . Some have found their particular setups with the WB rest like a perpindicular nock , In my experiance this has been with dual and hybred camed bows . Most single cam bows like a slightly high nock point 1/8 to 1/4 inch . This is hardly noticable by the eye , if you arrow looks like its pointing down Id say you have a nocking point problem , which is easy to fix , just move it down some . The rest should be adjusted so the arrow is even with the screws that hold it .

tschaef · 06-21-2006, 11:56 AM

Alright you pros, I just got home with my new bow square, knocking pliers, and knocks, so keep an eye on this thread because questions will come.

Heres the 1st question; the instructions on the square tell me how to determine my bows tiller length, but it doesn't tell me why this distance is important. Once I know my tiller, what do I use it for?

Another; how do I get the old knocks off without hurting the string?

gibblet · 06-21-2006, 12:25 PM

once you know your tiller, you create a garden with it.

ok, seriously, i guess an even tiller is a good place to start. the tiller measurement on each limb should be the same - that's what you're trying to find out. it would be good to set them equalbefore fixing your nocking situation because when you change your tiller - if you need to - it will change your nocking pt.

tschaef · 06-21-2006, 12:52 PM

Thanks gibblet, I'm glad that even is what I want because when I measured I found that I had no tiller (equal distances from handle/limb transitions to the string).
I got the old knocks off with a pair of side cutters (probably not the best idea, but it worked).
When I lined the square up I was surprised to see how close the originals were, I only had to lower them about 1/4".

Now to paper tune; how far away from the paper? Do you paper tune at different distances or just one?

I'm waiting for a DVD on bow tuning in the mail, but you guys know how it is, when you spend $ on a new toy you want to play with it right away

HuntingEd · 06-21-2006, 01:47 PM

I paper tune at about 10-15 ft.. then farther once i get that one straight... goto easton's website they have a tuning guide in their downloads section that tells you a lot of good details...