My Diamond Hornet uses the Bowtech sabre tooth PF single cam. I currently have the 28" module installed, but I'm contemplating changing my set up to shoot a loop. If I do, I'll need to drop the draw length my bow is set at, as my scott mongoose is set as short as possible. I need a loop or loop type release in order to try the Magnocks out, which I really want to do.
Do you know if the PF cam DL modules come in 1/2" increments? I'm thinking it will take 27 1/2" to get the job done...
I'm also considering leaving it at 28" (with a few string twists added to tweak it to perfection) and buying a Gator Jaw double caliper release. This will let me retain the current draw length and fps with a loop type release.
Any thoughts, both pro and con, will be appreciated
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Genesis 27:3
"œNow then, get your weapons "” your quiver and bow "” and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me."
The infinity cam from bowtech allows you to adjust 1/2" either way from what module you have. It affects let-off in the process, but you can get it to work. Say I want a 29.5" draw with 60-65% letoff...I buy a 30" mod, and move the stop for lower letoff. If I want a 29.5" draw with 80% I buy a 29" mod and adjust the stop to allow for more valley and draw length.
Then I recommend going a full inch module shorter(in your case a 27" mod)and then you can add your string loop to get your 27 1/2.
Don't get me wrong using the string and cable are a great way to make fine adustments but often people will twist this untwist that and then they can't figure out why thier bow lost poundage or won't shoot advertised speeds...Or whatever...
If you're talking tweaking a little here or there I'm sure it won't be off too much but make sure you check your poundage after you're done. I don't know Diamonds bows all that well, these changes may not effect their bows the same way as a BowTech...
Perhaps I wasn't clear. I want to end up right under 28" dl, with or without a loop. 27" with a loop to get me back just under 28", I don't know...
Anyone ever shot a double caliper over and under the nock release? I'd love some input on it before I buy if I go that route.
__________________
Genesis 27:3
"œNow then, get your weapons "” your quiver and bow "” and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me."
Rangeball, did you ever get the exact position of the cam for best timing down? If not and you want I can try to scan a picture of the cam and mark it with the proper timing position marked and email it to you if you would like. I shortened my draw length on my Hornet about 1/4"-3/8" by twisting the string up about 25 turns and the cable about 5 or 6 turns to bring the cam back in time. The A to A length shortened only like 1/8" or less and I didn't lose any speed or draw weight. This is fairly easy to do if you have a bow press or a Bowmaster portable like I use. Email me if I can be of any help.
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"It's not what you take when you leave this world behind you, but what you leave behind you when you go"
8pt, Thanks for the offer, If it isn't too much trouble I'd love to see the pic of the cam in it's proper timed position. Like an idiot, I didn't mark it when I got it back from Diamond, but I'm confident it hasn't moved much if at all. Your pic will let me know for sure.
25 twists in the string? Man, that seems like a ton. Sadly I don't have a bow press (oh Santa...), but will be headed to a pro shop this Friday. If possible, armed with your knowledge, I could get the job done.
Just curious, after you took up the string and cables (you did add twists to the cables as well, didn't you), did you have to move your nock set, or did it come right back in line with the cam timing?
Edited by - Rangeball on 10/30/2002 09:33:57
__________________
Genesis 27:3
"œNow then, get your weapons "” your quiver and bow "” and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me."
Bow Tech Fans et al...
