BK II update

mez · 10-24-2002, 01:34 PM

First, thanks for all the advice with my first post. Went to the pro shop last night and got some stiffer arrows, beman matrix 340, they seemed to shoot better through paper than the 300 so went with these. paper tuned the bow, and the groups with field points improved quite a bit. i thought problem solved. shot some broadheads at noon today and they are still shooting about five inches left of the field points. i shot all twelve arrows with muzzys and thunderheads, they both shoot about the same. what do i try next. i really don't want to have to move my sight between hunting and target and don't think i should have to with this much technology and price.

JeffB · 10-24-2002, 02:25 PM

Have you spin tested your broadheads? Are you getting any minor fletching contact? are you torque-ing the bow even just a minute amount?

You can still get perfect tears and have the above afflictions depending on how far away the paper is. This is why I place little faith in paper other than a "get me into the ballpark" type thing.

jeffB <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

mez · 10-24-2002, 02:54 PM

the broadheads spin good, no wobble, checked for fletch contact with lipstick on the rest prongs, that is good, have a level in my site as i have a tendency to torque the bow without one.

ijimmy · 10-25-2002, 06:55 AM

Make sure you have a relaxed grip [not tourqeing the bow] and make sure your center shot is correct .A small adjustment makes a big differance with broadheads , also that bare shaft tune will tell ya more than paper tuneing .I'd try 5 yards make adjustments , 10 yards make adjustments , 15 yards make adjustments , and then see where your broadheads and fieldpoints hit .

If information provided by the members of this board have helped you please let us know .

Edited by - ijimmy on 10/25/2002 08:07:18

pdq 5oh · 10-25-2002, 07:15 AM

mez, what is center shot set at? I start around 3/4" & tune from there. If the broadheads group well, you may just need a small rest adjustment along with a small sight adjustment. Any form flaws, torque, creep, poor release, will be magnified with broadheads. This could also cause you to hit left or right.

Phil.
"Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot."<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>

Rangeball · 10-25-2002, 08:31 AM

Fixed blades... hhmmmm... How fast are you flinging them? How big is the cutting diameter? What size of fletching and how are the attached (helical, offset)?

mez · 10-25-2002, 08:39 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quotequote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Fixed blades... hhmmmm... How fast are you flinging them? How big is the cutting diameter? What size of fletching and how are the attached (helical, offset)?

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>haven't chronographed it with the new arrows, with the godtips chronographed at 310 fps. 4 inch vanes, helical. i refletched a couple and put as much helix as i could on them and still keep them on the shaft. they fly the same

mez · 10-25-2002, 08:42 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quotequote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Fixed blades... hhmmmm... How fast are you flinging them? How big is the cutting diameter? What size of fletching and how are the attached (helical, offset)?

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>haven't chronographed it with the new arrows, with the godtips chronographed at 310 fps. 4 inch vanes, helical. i refletched a couple and put as much helix as i could on them and still keep them on the shaft. they fly the same
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>not fixed blades i tried that too and they plane pretty bad, get no consistency with them. replaceable blade heads is what i'm trying now, muzzys cut 1 1/8 i believe and thunerheads cut 1 3/16 i think.

mez · 10-25-2002, 08:45 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quotequote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
mez, what is center shot set at? I start around 3/4" & tune from there. If the broadheads group well, you may just need a small rest adjustment along with a small sight adjustment. Any form flaws, torque, creep, poor release, will be magnified with broadheads. This could also cause you to hit left or right.

Phil.
"Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot."<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>not sure what the center shot is set at. the guy at the pro shop set it when the bow was retuned. he said it was a little low. i'll measure it. going to address the form issue tonight. my brother is a form junkie and was a very competative competion shooter a few years ago. going to let him sight the bow in and shoot broadheads and see how they fly for him.

JOE PA · 10-25-2002, 05:28 PM

I don't own a Bowtech, but I have had similar problems with other bows. Switched to stiffer arrows, but the problem persisted. Broadheads would group well, but shoot 2-3" left of field points. After I took the grip off the bow, the problem went away. There was more to the situation in terms of symptoms vs. draw weight setting, etc. but the bottom line for me was, no added grip, no problem. You still need a relaxed grip on the bow, but shooting off the bare riser, or putting a thin covering of moleskin or leather on the riser may help things enough that you can stop pulling your hair out. Hope you solve your problem and get some venison in the freezer. Good luck!

Avoid the inevitable until it is absolutely unavoidable!