Bowtechs and Binary Cams.

Rob/PA Bowyer · 02-17-2006, 05:57 AM

Question? Through all my Hoyt years and dual cam bows I've always been able to tweak them to raise/lower the poundage and short or long string the string/cable to get the utmost performance from my equipment.

I've heard that you cannot do this with the Binary cam on the Bowtech that I am waiting for. That twisting or changing the cable/strings in any way really throughs off the letoff on this bow and you can actually can cause a 100% letoff and lock you cams at draw....

Now with former dual cams, there was hardly anything I couldn't do with the bow, so with you in the Bowtech knowledge, Is what I heard true and to what extent?

Len in Maryland · 02-17-2006, 06:20 AM

It all depends on whether or not you've got an '05 or '06 model. If it's an '05 model, it's possible but much more difficult. The '06 models have the modules which have a built in 'draw stop' mechanism which tends to override the '05 problems.

gibblet · 02-17-2006, 09:14 AM

rob, its not nearly as complicated as some folks have made it out to be. you'll see when it arrives that much of the hub-bub was really over not much.its actuallyvery simple. the only thing i really had to realize with my '06 consti is just how small of increments to adjust the stop. besides that it couldn't be more straightforward what cable does what and what the string will do.

MilDotMaster · 02-17-2006, 09:25 AM

Listed below is my experience with my particular bow...I can't state that your bow will tune like mine:

I spent weeks testing different cam positions and if you put speed aside you will find a sweet spot for accuracy in your bow. The first thing you should do is get your cams set-up with the correct let-off after your rest is installed. As you know, if you start tuning your bow and nock height, then start adjusting cam rotation your wasting your time because it will throw all your work out the window.

I found that my Old Glory BowTech has an accuracy sweet spot that has been talked about on several others posts or web sights. My top cam has 6 dots showing and bottom cam only has 5 dots showing. If I was using a WB rest I have a feeling that 5.5 dots on each side of limbs would get you close. At full draw my secondary stop is just kissing the cable. I have a fairly wide valley and my wall is solid. If your wall is spongy you have problems. Anyway"¦my top cam is retarded 2-3 twists from the bottom cam. These 2-3 twists have restored my let-off to 80%. With drop away installed this bow is very happy right at 80% let-off. So get your rest installed and check your let-off"¦if it"™s less than 80% then keep retarding top cam to get it there. After this is done recheck your rigging on rest if it"™s a drop away. Now refine your bow tuning and nock height. I then fine tuned nock height until I got all 6 hand picked arrows hitting or as close as possible to a horizontal black piece of electrical tape from 60 yards. Looking at bow from the side, I can just barely see top of berger holes above arrow shaft. I then did a walk back tune from 30 to 70 yards to get my center shot dead on. My 70# bow with the .300 spine arrows puts my center shot right at .970 out from inboard edge of riser. If your arrows are slightly under spined start off with 1 inch center shot. By the way when I say put speed aside, I"™m only talking 2-4 fps. Better to have the accuracy than the extra speed.

So what is my point with all this. First off"¦don"™t worry about locking up your cables on the 2006. Secondly, yes this bow isn"™t as critical as I may be making it sound, but if your looking for the absolute best accuracy you will have to find it and that can be found by adjusting cables/timing marks. In answer to your question, yes these bows can be adjusted. I have been all over the range of adjustmentand never had any problems. Once again within that range of adjustment you will find a spot that is best for accuracy. I just gave a good starting point in regards to the cam sync. Your timing dots will be different than mine, but the general idea is the same. I have found that the draw stop peg will get you adjustment, but in my opinion it is a patch to get the 80%. When I used draw stop only, I got a spongy wall because the secondary stop was being contacted too much. I left the draw stop in the 80% let-off position and adjusted cables bytwistingto get them to just kiss thesecondary stop.

Rob/PA Bowyer · 02-17-2006, 10:48 AM

LEN, '06 Allegiance ordered last week.....I'm sure I'll "tweak" it....

Matt / PA · 02-17-2006, 12:52 PM

Quote:

LEN, '06 Allegiance ordered last week.....I'm sure I'll "tweak" it....

Oh boy......I'll make sure the ringer is on high.

Rob/PA Bowyer · 02-17-2006, 07:40 PM

Exactly Matt, The phone should be on...I'll post when the bow arrives to give ya warning...

Len in Maryland · 02-17-2006, 08:01 PM

You'll be fine, Rob. Congrats on your new bow.

The '05s aren't as bad as they were made out to be. It's just when you're replacing the string and cables that you've got to be aware of a possible 100% let-off situation and what to do. One of my technicians experienced this when they first came out and it was a fun situation for us; but, it could be very serious for the unknowing.

Get your new bow, break it in and then 'play' with it.

If you have any questions, you know how to get in touch with me.

Rob/PA Bowyer · 02-17-2006, 08:44 PM

Thanks LEN, I appreciate that....believe me, I'm not afraid to tear them down and build them back up...if I get in a real jam...I'm also not afraid to ask for help....too many years or working on Hoyts might have me gun shy on a bow/cam I'm not familiar with.....yet.

Plus, I'll be building my own strings and cables when the time comes....better get it right...I always break the new one in, take it off and put on another...always to have a spare for a quick fix....