question for the "really" technically inclined!

[Greg / MO]

Some of you know I recently slapped my first really expensive sight on a bow -- a Spot Hogg Hunter Hogg-It (at least a sight approaching $200 is expensive in my mind).

My question revolves around the ability to adjust for 2nd and 3rd axis leveling... something I've obviously never been able to tinker with on the"cheaper" sights I've previously used.

The 2nd axis makes sense to me, since most people (myself included) naturally "cant" the bow to some degree when holding it naturally. I say this because I have to conciously turn my wrist a small bit to get the sight's bubble level to line up exactly.

Would it be better to make the adjustment with my wrist, and be holding the bow exactly up-and-down? Or, adjust the 2nd axis and tune the sight to my shooting form?

And someone please explain the benefits of 34d axis leveling to me?

Thanks. It's cool to be able to do this tinkering, although I was always able to use my old sights to just about nail any leaf I wanted to from my tree stand, so I really don't know how truly beneficial all the technology is...

[gibblet]

i don't know brother greg, i thought about messing with my 3rd axis, but didn't feel like dragging a target 50 yards up a steep hill to start.

[Matt / PA]

http://www.spot-hogg.com/newsletters.shtml

Read #1 and #19 regarding 3rd axis...........you're in deep now.

As far as 2nd axis goes, it's best to set that with the use of reliable bench tools. Don't set your 2nd axis for human error or natural cant. Set that level perfectly perpendicular to the string.
Then trust and adjust your shooting form to match the properly set level........adjusting a level for a built in cant or form issue is not a good idea.

I'll look for the emails..........

[Matt / PA]

i don't know brother greg, i thought about messing with my 3rd axis, but didn't feel like dragging a target 50 yards up a steep hill to start.

Gibblet,
No 50 yard uphill targets necessary.........read the Spot-Hogg info.
Aiming up at a plumb line at full draw will show you pretty quickly if your 3rd axis is off.

[Greg / MO]

I'll look for the emails..........

[newman1]

Does all this 2nd and 3rd axis leveling really make that big of a difference?

[Matt / PA]

Does all this 2nd and 3rd axis leveling really make that big of a difference?

Newman..... Depends how far you want to take your accuracy potential.

Your 3rd axis adjustment not only has to do with uphill shots, but DOWNHILL as well which would directly relate to treestand shots on downward angles.

If your goal is a pie plate at 30 yards or some other soft accuracy margin for error I suppose the 3rd axis isn't vital, plenty of animals have died at the hands of sights with no 3rd axis adjustment, 2nd axis should absolutely be taken into account set properly and used religiously.

I'll tell you though, where I shoot in 3D competition with pins a properly set 2nd and 3rd axis could easily mean the difference between a top 3 finish and a 3rd PAGE finish.

I want to give myself every accuracy advantage I can for the highest level of precision my body will allow. Aim small miss small and who knows if and when that little extra window of error means the difference between a marginally hit animal and a fatal shot? Problem is, if it happens to you you'll never know.

If you are primarily a treestand hunter and do not have a 3rd axis adjustment you should be sure to shoot your bow from height to make sure there is no difference left and right vs level ground. If there is a difference you'll need to readjust your sights for the elevated position.

[gibblet]

now that sounds like something i'm much more willing to do matt, thanks.

[Greg / MO]

John, here's what my owner's manual has to say about 3rd axis leveling:

1) Hang a plumb bob from your ceiling.

2) Nock an arrow.

3) Kneel down (so that you will be shooting uphill).

4) Draw back, and aim up toward the plumb bob and align your vertical aiming wire to the plumb bob. See where your level is.

5) Let down, and make an adjustment to your 3rd axis (the object is to try and get your wire lined up with the plumb bob and your bubble level).

6) Redraw to see how close your adjustment is.

7) Repeat steps as necessary.

[gibblet]

i ain't got no wire, but i can spread my pins out and do that.

hey, got my consti busting a couple pin nocks today - not too shabby - and that's without a peep.