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Arrows and Words. Use them wisely, once released they can't be brought back.
Chris Miles
Ulitmate Camo Web Site http://ultimatecamo.com/ UltimateCamo Water Transfer Imaging http://liquidprintone.com/
It depends on the rest you are using, the type of release, the way your nocking system is set up, etc...
I set up single cams about 1/8th to 3/16ths nock high. This is a good starting point. With your nocking system, single nock below your arrows nock and inside a loop, the pulling force is slightly below the arrows nock and in my experiance this causes your arrows nock to need to be even a little bit higher than normal.
If you loose that brass nock you got in there, cause it is doing absolutely nothing but robbing you of speed, I bet you that your arrows nock will sit right where the brass nock was and it will shoot even better.
Why would you still want a brass nock if you are shooting with a loop?
Oh yeah, you should be measuring to where the center of the arrow is not to the top or bottom side of the arrow. So if the bottom of the square is touching the prongs then you are measuring it wrong and it should be moved up a bit. The center of the shaft sits above the prongs.
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"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency........... Blaming the prince of the fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of fools that made him their prince. The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
My rest is the QuikTune 360 rest and I use a mechanical release.
As for the nock......I didn't ask for it. It was already on the string when I bought the Diamond bow. My assumption is he left it there and put the loop around it.
Should I just remove the brass nock?
Quote:
ORIGINAL: bigbulls
It depends on the rest you are using, the type of release, the way your nocking system is set up, etc...
I set up single cams about 1/8th to 3/16ths nock high. This is a good starting point. With your nocking system, single nock below your arrows nock and inside a loop, the pulling force is slightly below the arrows nock and in my experiance this causes your arrows nock to need to be even a little bit higher than normal.
If you loose that brass nock you got in there, cause it is doing absolutely nothing but robbing you of speed, I bet you that your arrows nock will sit right where the brass nock was and it will shoot even better.
Why would you still want a brass nock if you are shooting with a loop?
Oh yeah, you should be measuring to where the center of the arrow is not to the top or bottom side of the arrow. So if the bottom of the square is touching the prongs then you are measuring it wrong and it should be moved up a bit. The center of the shaft sits above the prongs.
Yes, I would remove the brass nock, shorten up the loop, cause it will get long when you remove the brass nock, and start about 1/8th nock high.
You idealy want just enough loop so that there is a small ammount of space between your release jaws and the back of the arrows nock when you are all hooked up.
__________________
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency........... Blaming the prince of the fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of fools that made him their prince. The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
FYI, This option doesn't work on single cam bows.
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Mathews Switchback 70#
VBG 3-ring Trapper
Schaefer Mat-1 GenII Rest
Scott Little bitty Goose
Doinker Stabilizer
Carbon Xpress Maxima 350
Slick Trick
The nock is now gone. I haven't shortened the loop yet. Will tackle that another day.
Discovered a problem with the cable today....it's showing some wear. I posted a thread about it. "Diamond Victory Cable Wear!!"
I also used their (sp?) chronograph. It clocked my arrows at 277fps. Is that decent considering my arrows weigh between 420-450gr?
Quote:
ORIGINAL: bigbulls
Yes, I would remove the brass nock, shorten up the loop, cause it will get long when you remove the brass nock, and start about 1/8th nock high.
You idealy want just enough loop so that there is a small ammount of space between your release jaws and the back of the arrows nock when you are all hooked up.
Bow Square Question
