I'm shooting a Bowtech Liberty, 74lb peak draw weight, 28 inch arrow w/ 125 gr head. I was using the Easton 2314 Super Slam Select, 4" feathers, straight fletch. The bow was properly tuned, but had issues with field tips and broadheads grouping together. Ended up adjusting the sights to the broadheads. This year ordered another dz arrows from an online Co. They were also 2314, Super Slam (apparently they stopped making the select) with 4" feather, right helical.Just shotthe new arrows and the field tips and broadheads now group together. Did the right helical make the difference? Or was it the fact that the cock feather on the new arrows is at 9 o'clock instead of down. (I have a drop away rest so I would not think that would make a difference) And if you look at the Easton chart I should be using an arrow from Group J not I. I'm confused.[&:]
i am guessing that it was the fact that the one arrow did have a striahgt fletch were as the others had a helical,,the helical spun the arrow which helped stabilize the arrow,,just my .10
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The helical made all the difference. Period. End of story.
Helical makes the arrow spin, so it won't be as likely to plane off in only one direction when fronted by a broadhead.
The consistent plane off center with your straight fletched arrows could have been indicating a weak spine condition. Or it could have been indicating a misadjustment in your centershot. If you're really curious, try some stiffer arrows with straight fletch and see.
Actually the easton charts will not tell you everything you need to know. A spine proram would get you much closer.
You need to take into acount how much more energy some of these new bows produce, especially the bowtechs. It is pretty common to come up underspined on arrows when using simple charts or the cheesy one put out by most carbon arrow manufacturers. There simply is not enough data in the eqaution to get an accurate figure for corect spine.
The easiest thing to do is just turn down the poundage on your bow and see if things get better. If they do, either leave it there, or get stiffer arrows. I normally pick my arrows a little stiff to begin with just to be safe.
Paul
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I think I finally figured this spine thing out. As you work your way through the Easton chart from Group A to L the spine is increasing. So my arrow of 2314 which is in group I is underspined and I need to choose an arrow in Group J to get a stiffer arrow. Correct?
Drakeman, the .390 is the amount of deflection or flex in that shaft with the shaft supported on both ends and a certain weight hung in the middle. The lower the number, the less flex, meaning the more stiff the arrow. A .340 is more stiff than a .390. A 390 is more stiff than a .400.
So, if you want a stiffer arrow than a .390, look at the charts and choose one that is lower than .390.
If you want an arrow with less spine than .390 you find one with a higher number.
Easton has an arrow spine and weight comparison chart. Link to it is on their home page. Not much good for anything, unless you're trying to find a lighter arrow in close to the same spine range, but it's a good thing to look at, to get an idea how this stuff works.
You have to take into account also that the front of center (FOC) is different between the Super Slams and Super Slam Selects because the SS Selects eliminate the UniBushing, which lightens the rear of the shaft. Sometimes just a few more or less grains up front makes a big difference in how the arrow responds.
Just my thoughts ...
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Arrow Question...Does this make sense?
