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Last year I used the stinger 2 blade without bleeders and they shot EXACTLY like the field tips. This year I switched to a whisker rest...
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I love it! Bow's shooting great so, instead of leaving well enough alone, let's change the rest!
Oh well, what's done is done.
Never just go by the results of a paper test. Contrary to popular belief, it only gives you a general starting point for beginning a decent bow tune. You've got more work to do.
Raise your nock point to bring the broadheads down. When you've got them hitting the same level as your field points, then - and only then - move your rest right to move the broadheads into the group with your field points.
Make very small adjustments, no more than 1/64" at a time. With your broadheads already hitting close at 20 yards, you won't need much more than a few tweaks.
Have someone stand behind you and watch your arrow flight. Don't watch them yourself or you'll wind up torquing the bow and making the arrow's fly wierd no matter how well the bow is tuned.
Just my opinion, but avoiding torque is even more important with full containment rest like the whisker bisquit. It will amplify any torquing problem you've got. With a regular rest on a properly tuned bow, the arrow is not in contact with the rest - or shouldn't be - just after the release is made. Any contact you get will just be along the bottom of the arrow, and it will be cushioned by the rest's spring tension. The arrow is free to fly, even with whatever torque you apply to the grip after the release.
With the bisquit though, the arrow is in complete, 360 degree contact from the time you trigger the release until the nock goes through the whiskers. That gives you a micro second more time to torque the bow and affect the shot.
In other words, you have to be just a tad steadier with a bisquit than you have to be with a standard or dropaway rest. Just something to keep in mind.
Broadheads shooting high and left
