It seems I have tried everything and the biscuit still tears up my arrow fletchings. I shoot cock feather up and the bottom two get wavey after just one shot and get worse every shot till they tear after a few days of shooting. Will these just not shoot on some bows? I shoot a Matthews feather max.
I had the same problem, finally gave up and threw it away, went back to the two prong, drop away one and i am shooting a lot better and not tearing up fletchings now.
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you need to make sure you can see light through the top of the arrow. in other words a loose fit is key. even though i bought the bigger model for aluminums my carbons still had a tight fit. i had to open the biscuit up and make the hole wider. i even snipped a little of the metal ring off with cutters to make it fit back into the rest nicely. you can purchase bigger biscuits also instead of modifying. also you need to make sure the biscuit is 90 degrees square to the string and your nock point is levelto 1/8 high. then check your center shot. i have used this rest for years with off the shell arrows from aluminums to carbons and at most only had mild wrinkle problems that was fixed by heating with a hair dryer. you can also put a drop of glue at the base of the fletching so it doesnt shred them off my younger brother uses pse carbons and the glue they used on them didnt hold worth a darn.
You say feathers in your post , what kind of fletching are you useing ?
Some vanes just dont work with the WB , otherwise it is an excelent rest .
Some arrow shafts are allso noisey on the draw , but there are cures for that .
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Hi there, if you are using feathers then the WB will destroy them over time no matter what you do. If you are using vanes, go to a straight vane rather than a helical. This should take care of the problem.
If the bottom two fletches are wavy they are probably hitting the windage bar that holds the biscuit.
If you even the tiller of the bow and nock the arrow at 90degrees to the bowstring the bow should shoot a level arrow and the wavy thing won't happen to your fletching.
The windage for the rest should be determined by shooting the correct spine arrow for the bow at a vertical line at 10-20-30-40-yards. The correct spine arrow will hit the same vertical line at different distances while the incorrect spine arrow will not. The optimum windage setting is not always going to be with the rest in the centerline of the bow. Often the bow will shoot its best with the rest 1/8" to the out side of the centerline. You have to adjust and shoot in order to see.
When i first started using the WB, I had the same problem with the veins. After talking to my coworker, he suggested that i go to feathers. Yes, the WB does wear down the feathers a bit, but it doesn't seem to affect my groups. I would strongly encourage going to feathers, if you aren't using them currently. Overall I have been very satisfied w/ my WB.
Some quick tips. Use a durable vane such as bohnings fletch tite or blazer vanes. You can also use feathers, either 3 4' or 4 3" feathers work well. I use a strong helical. You set the fletch so that it passes over the black bristles and through the brown ones. Tune your bow by shooting through paper at 3 different ranges. 3 8 and 15' are what I use. If you use the wrong fletch, duravanes or the larger quick spins they get wrinkeld up quickly so pick a good stiff vane or smaller feathers and tune your bow and the WB works just fine.
Wisker Biscuit Tuning
thats what im tryin to say...
