paper tuning problems

[Finch]

This is getting frustrating. Yesterday I retired the whisker bisquit for a NAP quick tune 2000 dropaway. We shot thru paper at the shop and it was good. Today Im out sighting it in and notice my field points shoot 4 inches to the right of where I aim at 30 yrds. I hit the X at 20 yrds but not 30. So I decided to paper tune. I shoot from 5 feet away and there is about a inch-inch & half tear to the left each time. The rest can not move any farther from the riser than where it is set b/c of the knob on the rest. I thought I had to move it that way but I move it all the way to the right just for giggles and it does about the same thing. I've been trying to get this thing tuned for a while. Guy at the shop said arrows were the right spine and he cranked the bow up a couple pounds to 60. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks

[Bulzeye]

It's time to start over.

First, start with the rest adjusted so the arrow is centered.
See the Easton Tuning guide for preliminary setup.

Once that is done, try again with paper to get the arrow leaving the bow properly. Make SMALL adjustments, and follow what the guide says. Keep in mind that a clearance problem where your fletching is making contact with something as it leaves the bow can mimic other problems.

When it looks good with paper, do some bareshaft tuning to get it really good, and then broadhead tune to get it humming with blades.

The people here can help you better if you list the specs of your setup.
Type of bow, release or fingers, bow draw length, arrow length, arrow type, point weight, etc. It can be pretty involved, adn the more somebody knows about what you've got, the better.

[MIHunter02]

Paper Tuning
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By: HuntingNet Staff

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Tail Left: (Often indicates a weak spined arrow)
1. Decrease draw weight. Back out both limb bolts a quarter turn at a time. Make certain to adjust both limbs equally to avoid changing the tiller and nock point position on the string. Also make certain to avoid backing the limb bolts out too far to avoid injury to the archer and damage to the bow.
2. Decrease point weight. A lighter point will have some effect on increasing shaft stiffness. Too light of a point however, may result in unstable arrow flight.
3. If steps 1 and 2 don't reduce the length of the tear to your satisfaction, you may need to change to a stiffer shaft.
Tail Right: (Often indicates an arrow that is too stiff)
1. Increase draw weight. Tighten both limb bolts a quarter turn at a time. Make certain to adjust both limbs equally to avoid changing the tiller and nock point position on the string.
2. Increase point weight. A heavier point will have some effect on decreasing shaft stiffness. Arrow speed may be reduced.
3. If steps 1 and 2 don't reduce the length of the tear to your satisfaction, you may need to change to a weaker shaft.
To correct a Tail high:
1. Move the nocking point down in small increments.
2. If using a launcher or shoot-thru type arrowrest, move the arrow support arm up. Increasing spring tension can also be helpful.
3. Check for fletching interference and adjust rest position as needed.
To correct a Tail low:
1. Move the nocking point up in small increments.
2. If using a launcher or shoot-thru type arrowrest, move the arrow support arm down. Reduced spring tension can also be helpful for even finer adjustments.
**Note: When paper tuning a left handed bow right and left tears are reversed.**
Found this on the HuntiingNet site hope it helps, might point you in the right direction.

[Finch]

Thanks for the replys guys. I gave up for today. The rest was not coming all the way up b/c the dropaway cable had slack in it. So I fixed that but it didnt do anything for the left tear. Guy at the shop said to shoot odd fletching down b/c when up it was hitting something?? I did this but it didnt seem to help. I moved my rest to the right and left to see if there was a differance and there was not. I might try and torque it up some tomorrow. Im shooting a Hoyt Ultrasport at about 60 pounds with a 28.5 " draw with a release. Im shooting those carbon Eastons C2's 400 with 100 grain points. Im not sure about the specs on the arrow. The rest is a QUICKTUNE 2000 d/a. Thanks for the help.

[AR34]

Hey. Don't forget about bow hand torgue. It may not be the rest, the bow, the arrows, the fletchings, etc...it might be YOU. Make sure your hand is relaxed. Paper tuning gets so much talk nowadays, but personal experience has taught me that solid shootingform is worth more than all the newspaper you shoot through. Also, frustration is the biggest cause of inconsistent form; you get ticked, your tears are funky, your form goes to crap. Take a break and go at it with a fresh head tomorrow.

[Finch]

im pretty sure its not my form. I shoot the paper at chest level and always relax my bow hand and follow through.

[AR34]

Okay, it's not you. LikeBulzeye had said, it's time to start over. Center-shot your rest. Double check the nock. Set it like, 1/4" above center and have at it. Like I said, paper tuning gets so much talk, but it's not the "end all, be all". Some bow/arrow/broadhead/shooter combinations just won't tune on paper.Just like someone had said in a previous thread, don't worry yourself about paper...shoot a target and see how they fly. Perfection is unattainable, on paper or anything else for that matter.

[Sniper151]

Paper tuning will imprint the arrow flight at a specific distance. You may luck out and find the correct settings using this method, but how much time do you want to spend to tune your setup? Bare shaft tune and with the correct arrow for your draw and weight setting you will have a fine tuned setup. I'm not concerned what my arrow is doing at 6"™ or 10"™, I want to have my arrows flying true, impacting at the same point with my field tips and broadheads. This can be done with proper bare shaft tuning.

[arrow1b]

those rests are none for fletching contact. check the rest and the cable that pulls the rest up for contact.

[arrow1b]

also I think there is an allen screw under the prongs that allow you to move the rest out more. I think you can take the screw out and there is two holesyou can chose from.