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ORIGINAL: JeramyK
So, excluding the A/C/C's, are there any brands that tend to be more consistant when it comes to the spin test? Or is it based on luck depending on which batch of arrows you got on that particular day?
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This is how I do it.
1)buy the absolute straightest arrows that particular manufacturer makes. From Easton this is A/C/Cs. Beman does have a new "Elite" grade straighness (dealer only) for the ICSH. All the other carbons from Easton/Beman are pretty similar for straightness (i.e. hit or miss). For Goldtip this is the "pro" series. For Carbon Express it's the "select" series. For Carbon Tech the "XP" series, etc.
2) Use your spinner to determine which end need to be cut off(or both). Sometimes this can be a pain, because you may need to only cut off one inch at one end, and then cut off the rest at the other end to make your finished arrow length. Oftentimes though you only need to cut off one end, or just will need to take off the same amount on both (e.g. You need a 28" arrow. Raw shafts are 33.5 inches long....you take 2.75" off one end...then 2.75" off the other.)
*on premium straightness shafts it's usually *much* simpler. Generally justa bit of wobble on one end or the other. easy peasy.
3) Use either that tool from Montec or the stone from a set of AXIS to square the ends. (I actually do this first if i take a brand new shaft and see the nock only wobbles just a teeny bit. Sometimes this is all that is needed)
*It's important that you put the nock on the straightest/most wobble free end.If it doesn't get a smooth straight send off it will never be as accurate as possible.
4) After getting them cut and the nock installed properly I fletch them as desired.
5) I then use a slow cure epoxy or power bond to install inserts (again making sure the point end was squared off) *WITH* whatever broadhead I'm going to use. Spin the arrows and adjust the instert as necc to get the broadhead wobble free. I do this for every arrow. If I don't have enough broadheads I'll do 4 or 6 at a time. Let them dry overnight after I get the inserts right, and then start over the next day with another batch.
It *IS* a permanent bond. So make sure you get 'em right and dry standing on the nock end undisturbed. If you get one that won't spin right after turning an insert, I try a different broadheads. If that doesn't work, I try a new insert. Good thing is with the slow set epoxy/Power bond, you have plenty of time to get it right.
Youmay want to number/mark the arrows as to whichparticular arrowwent with which particular broadhead (as they have variances too, and can produce a little wobble if mismatched from original). I generally just try each head on each shaft to find which one was originally matched up. And if you've got the arrows built really well w/ quality components, sometimes it won't matter..they all will spin well regardless.
Then I pick the 4-6 absolute straightest spinning nock/broadhead arrows, and put them away as my hunting shafts with the boradheads attatched.
The rest I use for practice until time comes to shoot the broadhead arrows.
Yes it's a bit time consuming. But it's much less time consuming then trying to "tune" broadheads on crap arrows that are shoddily put together and getting totally frustrated. Since I've started doing this, I've had only one setup that I had to do major re-tuning with to get to shoot with my field points. Poor nock travel on that particular bow. Every other setup has yielded (assuming well tuned bow w/ field points), broadheads that hit right with field tips or at the most 2 inches out (usually low). A quick tweak of the rest and bingo.
I should charge for this stuff
Arrow Spinner Vs. Arrow Straightener
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