Do a search on the "walk back test". This is IMO the best way to get it perfect. I use this method on my hunting, 3-d, and indoor bow and it hasn't let me down yet. The centershot will be a little differant for a finger shooter than a realese but this way should put you cutting x's in no time.
SF
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sniper, explain that please. aren't you opening a big can of worms finding it that way, when a properly tuned bow may produce a bare shaft a couple inches left or right depending on certain factors i don't even want to mention.
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I find bareshaft testing more suitable to determine spine, then for anything else. The easist, most reliable method of finding centershot, is the "walk back" tune. It usually only takes me a couple minutes to have a bow's centershot using this method. I can get it real close by eye, then a couple shots at 20 yards and a couple shots at 50 yards, and I'll be very, very close. At the most it will take a few more shots to have it exact. When done, test with a broadhead attached, as long as there is no wind.
Here is a way to find the centershot without taking the bow in and having it set with a laser. You'll need two (it's easier with two) small levels. You will also need to support both ends of your bow limbs and let the riser hang freely. I use a press, but you don't need one. Next, get an arrow and put the heaviest point that you have on it. I use a 185 grain head. Now make sure that the riser is perpendicular to the floor. Check with the levels on a few different points. Most of the times I will use the point where the limbs (back) connect to the riser.Connect the arrow to your nock and let it hang freely. Move your rest appropriately. This is the centershot of your bow (or very close to it) at rest. This is a great starting point for tuning. Also, make sure that the arrowlines upto the arrow rest wholes drilled in the riser for the up/down alignment. If your bow has two wholes, I'd draw a line between the two right across the riser.
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BobCo, that makes a lot of sense for a starting point for a preliminary setup.
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1st things first. Bareshafting, and paper tuning will not tell you centershot.
Proof: Centershot your bow using either of these methods. Then change yourpoint weight.Your centershot will change. Why would point weight affect centeshot?
Anyway, The step back method is the only way I have found to find centershot. Using one pin, start shooting at 5 yards, stepping back 5 yards at a time. So you should shoot 5, 10, 15...35. If you arrows make a diagonal down the target your spine is off on your bow. If you make a C shape, you arrow rest is out too far. (They will make a gentle C shape). If you make a backwards C then you rest is too far in. Its that simple.
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Anyway, The step back method is the only way I have found to find centershot. Using one pin, start shooting at 5 yards, stepping back 5 yards at a time. So you should shoot 5, 10, 15...35. If you arrows make a diagonal down the target your spine is off on your bow. If you make a C shape, you arrow rest is out too far. (They will make a gentle C shape). If you make a backwards C then you rest is too far in. Its that simple.
ewolf, I agree with your method, but I wonder about the "C" formed by the arrow. I've never had a bow that was off on centershot that would hit in the same vertical plane at 15 yards, as it would at, say 40 yards. In fact, if I move back to 80 or 90 yards when testing, the deviation from the center line is even more apparent. Maybe, this has to do more with the fact that I never shoot at 5 yards when testing this. I usually pick 15 or 20 yards to start, and then back up to 50 or 60 yards.
Here is an extract from an Arthur P post which is just about the best explaination on walkback tuning that I have heard. It would be assumed that the bow is shot exactly perpendicular to the gound (no cant) and the site pins are exactly parellel to the string. This method however will only be as good as theindividual shooting the bow.
Quote:
walkback tune to clean up your centershot. So, start over from scratch. Eyeball centershot where you think it needs to be. Move the SIGHT to sight in dead nuts at 20 yards, then move over to the 50 and fire for effect. Move the CENTERSHOT so that the arrows are flying down the middle at 50, then go back to 20. Sight in dead nuts at 20 again, then move back to 50 and fire for effect. Adjust centershot to put the center the arrows on the pin again. Then go back to the 20 and repeat the whole process again. Only move the sight at 20 and only move centershot at 50. Shouldn't take more than 3-4 rounds of that to get your centershot and pins wiggled in and lined up properly.
This is the way I always tune centershot on my bows. Since I know I'm going to walkback tune anyway, I never paper tune any more.
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How to find center shot
