My brother has been having trouble getting his bow to group well. We shot it through a piece of paper, and it has a high tear. So I need to lower the nock point right? Anyway, I don't have the tools to loosen and lower the nock point. I read on here somewhere (I can't seem to find it now) that the nock point could be raised or lowered by tightening the top or bottom limb respectivly. Is this correct? Will doing this cause any problems that would make it inadvisable? I can take it to a pro shop if I have to, but i don't really want to because my local shop stays so busy right now it takes forever to get anything done.
I'm not an expert, but maybe you can use a screwdriver with a lot of careful to not damage the string or an eyebrow pincers to loose a little the knock and move it...
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I remember once using a pair of needle nose pliers to move a nock point back when I first got into working on my own bows. Putting pressure at the right angle pops the nock point open more thus allowing you to move it up and down the string. That seems alot less troublesome than what you are suggesting.
If you manage to get the brass nockset off then I would suggest just serving in a tied-on nockset the next time as it is much easier to relocate without tools.
Changing the tiller will change the nocking point of the bow. However, this is minimal and often times not a good idea. I shoot a very low grip, and normally I tiller my bows about 3/16".
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Tiller is the distance from the riser top and bottom, usually measured from where the limb pockets meet the riser, to a straight line between the two axels. This is adjusted by loosening or tightening one limb bolt or the other. It is not really a necessary thing to do. In fact I have never once tuned my bow by adjusting the tiller because I shoot my bow with the limbs bottomed out at the maximum poundage. If you shoot your bow with the limbs set to a lower poundage then this is a worth while measurement to take and make even on top and bottom.
It is not advisable to do this to simply move your nocking point as it can cause more harm than good.
You can get a good set of nocking pliers from just about any pro shop or even Walmart sometimes has them during the hunting season. If not take it to a pro shop and have them move it for you. It is very easy to cut your serving with the wrong tools then you got another problem.
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thanks for the info. I kinda thought that this wasn't a good idea. I will try to find a pair of nocking pliers at walmart or academy sports. The pro shop charges really high prices for stuff like that because the guy who owns it doesn't want you to do your own work, he wants you to bring your bow to him and let him do it.
Using tiller (moving one of your limb bolts) will effect the nocking point. However it is used for very slight changes in nocking point when really fine tuning. In order to move it a fair amount it would change the poundage of the bow and how the bow feels in your hand since it would change the grip angle.
I say if you want to do this, get the proper tools like a bow square and nock pliers. Usually you can get a kit that comes with a sqaure, pliers and a cheap set of allen wrenches. I would still be carefull because you can mess up a string even with the proper tools. If you not sure what you are doing it could get expensive realy fast, not to mention dangerous. If you move the nock point enough you will also have to move the peep sight as well. This may or may not require a bow press to do it properly. Depend on the type of peep you have and how it is mounted. You can also make this change by raising the rest which will level the arrow as well.
The guy at the shop charges because hopefully he knows what he is doing. A good shop owner will let you watch and explain what he is doing so you can make adjustments in the field if you have to. Or you can just experiment, I did. Of course I made some mistakes as well, some costly. I will also add that like anything else, good tools make a world of difference. The stuff that comes in those little kits is crap. The allen wrenches are not very good quality and the nock plier are not the best either. You would be better off buying them separate and getting better tools. Of course they are not cheap, no matter where you get them.
My opinion is to not fret over it. I would 99% garuantee that your buddies poor grouping has nothing to do with how it shoots an arrow thru the paper. Unless you are talking about fixed blade broad heads, they are fairly critical to tuning. If you are just talking about field points with good fletchings at moderate distances tuning is not as important as most think. And some tune specifically for a high tear in paper. There have been archery records set that have yet to be broken by bows that were severly out of tune. I'm not saying a well tuned bow is not more forgiving, but in the end it boils down to the person shooting the bow. In order to tune well you need to be able to shoot well first.
I myself don't mess to much with paper. I don't spend too much time trying to get a bullet hole when I am just going to tune my bow more and move the rest again any way. Also I would verify that your nock high tear is not from some sort of contact instead of a nock point issue. If your fletchings are hitting your rest one the way out it will throw the tail high as it leaves the bow. The wrong spring tension on a prong rest will do this as well.
My advice would be to go to the shop and ask for help, even better yet maybe get some help with form and shooting technique. That is just my opinion any way. Not that you shouldn't learn as much as you can and experiment. That is the best way to learn what works and how your bow works. You just have to be ready for the ocasional misshap every now and then.
Paul
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I needed to move mine while tunuing last week. I used a pair of pliers and a thin straight slot screwdriver. It worked but tuning tools will be purchased soon for next time.
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How to adjust nock point without tools?
