Fletching Blazers

[bownutty]

I just picked up a Butzenberger jig with a right helical clamp, finally! I picked up some 2" Blazers and picked up some Fletchtight.

Question #1:

When I set the offset on the jig for my GT arrows, I left the top offset notch at 0. The bottom offset notch was moved to the right for what seemed to be the best fletch contact with the arrow. For some reason, my head is telling me it sould have been moved to the left for the right helical to work better ie: spin the arrow.

Is my head not on target here or is moving the bottom offset to the right correct? From things I have read about fletching, you play until you get good fletch contact with the arrow.

2nd Qustion:

I fletched a half dozen GT arrows and have been shooting them for about three weeks with the Blazers and have had great results with them. When Ipurchased theglue, I was in a hurry and picked up Bohnings Fletchtight in the white tube. After fletching up the arrows, I noticed on the tube it said "not recomended for carbon/graphite arrows.

My question is, why isBohnings Fletchtight in white tubenot recomemnded for carbons? The Blazers seem to have adhered really well with it and are stuck on tight, no problems in three weeks. Am I going to have a heck of a time cleaning/removing the glue from thearrows the next time they need to be fletched?

Thanks everyone.

Chris

[The Rev]

Chris, I've done the same thing. I used the Fletchtite, and worked very well. The tech at my bowshop says he uses it all the time on all arrows. If they are sticking good you did a good job preping the arrow shaft first. On your first question, I made sure I have a contact with the arrow...
Someone else may have another opinion, but that's what I am doing and it's working fine.

[bigbulls]

When I set up a jig for a particular shaft I set the rear of the jig first in the center, or just slightly left of center, of the shaft and then set the front of the jig to the right of the rear making sure I have good contact between the shaft and fletch.

Of course I will again make a small tweak or two to the front and/ or back to get it just right.

[G2 Shooter]

Question 1:
Just as bigbulls said. I set my Bitz with the bottom adjustment at zero or slightly left. The top adjustment is right of zero. Make small adjustments and then place a vane in the clamp without cement. Put it on the arrow and check to make sure all of the vane's base is making contact. I personally like to put as much offset on the Blazers as possible because they are small. I also use the right helical clamp and have had great results with the Blazers.
Another tip. Mark your clamp so that you attach all of your vanes the same distance from the end of the arrow. I also put the clamp on the arrow before cementing to make sure the vane is lined up with the other two.

Question 2:
I have had less than great results using the Fletchtite with carbon arrows on things other than the Blazers, ie inserts, nocks. I think the reason the Blazers are secure is that they have an accelerator on the base of the vane. I have better results with the Fletch-tite Platinum or the Instant Gel. The Instant Gel is basically Krazy Glue and lets me build arrows faster.
And yet another tip! I started using the EZE-Crest wraps and it makes stripping the vanes a lot easier. I just grab the vane with some pliers and rip it off. Peel off as much of the wrap and you can. There is usually some stubborn parts where the vane was glued to it. Get yourself some De-Bonder and wipe it on. Wait a minute and scrap off the rest of the wrap. Presto! Bare shafts again. If you use wraps, I also suggest cutting them down to 1" wide. There is less overlap to deal with when locating the vanes.

Good luck!