? on my paper tuning

[jerseyhunter]

At 4-6 ft I have the tip going in 5/8" high and at 1:00, next shot 5/8" high at 11:00 and Shooting at 12'-15'+or- I have a perfect shot. My broadheads are shooting 2-4 " to the left of my target arrows at 23 yds . They were 6 inches to the left and 6 inches high of the targets till I added the sims string leaches. Any advice. I'm shooting beemans 400's cut at 28" with 100 gr tips , bow weight should be about 65. Sent the scale back cause it was off by 4-5 lbs. Thanks for any help. Just trying to be lazy and pic your brains to save time. Also my nock was put ont at the shop. Can I move it a tad with out removing it or destroying my string. Just getting into working on my own equipment without havig to pay someone. Though it's alot easier to just shell out the $, but this way is more rewarding. Thanks in advance guys.

[BobCo19-65]

A high tear such as the one you described is not a terrible thing, but I'd get it closer. Most people prefera 11:00 fletch tear (point in middle), but I'd ratherhave a bullet hole. I can't explain the right and left tear only to say that is either an inconsistancy in your shooting, or clearance problems. I will only papertune (when I bother) to 6 feet max. It onlytells you how the arrow is coming off the bow. If it is coming off straight, then that is great. Any much further then about 6 feet and your fletch will be stablizing your arrow for you. Such as your case.

After papertuning, bare shaft tune (field points only) the bow. And having a fixed blade not hitting the same POI is not a terrible thing IMO. Your bow may require a different tune for a fixed blade as compared to a field point.

[G2 Shooter]

First off you should go to Easton's web site and download their tuning guide which will tell you how to read your paper tuning results. The only reason I can think of for your arrows to tear the paper differently from shot to shot is your form. You need to work on that first before you can attempt to correct arrow flight with paper tuning otherwise you will just be chasing your tail.

From you post is sounds like your arrows are flying tail low and to the left. First correct the tail low by raising your nock point. Try an 1/8" at a time until you are close and then make as small of an adjustement as you can until the low/high tears are gone. For the left tear, it looks like your arrows are the correct spine so I'm guessing your center shot is off. Move the rest to the right in small increments until the tear is gone. This should put you pretty close.

Paper tuning should start at 3-4 feet from the paper. The reason you are getting bullet holes at 15 feet is because the fletching has corrected the flight of the arrow but the damage has already been done. You should have your field points paper tuned and flying correctly before you start adjusting for your broadhead flight. If everything is right, you shouldn't need to adjust at all but that would be a perfect world. A lot f times you must adjust for broadhead flight as it will be different from your field points.

Your broadhead point of impact changed when you added the leaches because you added weight to the string, basically adding to the perceived weight of the arrow. This would make the bow react differently when you released. Get your bow and accessories set up the way you want it and then tune it. If you keep making changes to it, you will have to check the tune everytime.

If you are talking about brass nocks then yes, you can move them. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully open it up without damaging the serving. Move it to where you want and then use a set of nock ring pliers to tighten it back down. Don't be cheap, go buy a pair or else you will damage your serving.

Congrats on taking the plunge at working on your own equipment. It's a lot more frustrating , err, I mean fun and rewarding!

[jerseyhunter]

First off you should go to Easton's web site and download their tuning guide which will tell you how to read your paper tuning results.

Been there and have all kinds of tuning guides. Was just looking for a little profesional and friendly advice.

Thank you for the replies.

as as far as form ,I'm working on that since I don't use a rear sight. It's a new bow and I'm just getting the time to play.

Your broadhead point of impact changed when you added the leaches because you added weight to the string, basically adding to the perceived weight of the arrow. This would make the bow react differently when you released.

Ps. Yes I realize that I have lost a few fps, which would accout for better accuracy since I have a Savage QC Ranger which requires the right speed of your arrowfor the sight to work correctly. Every time I change, anything I have to go to the range and re calculate my speed accordng to the speed charts the company provides. A chrono or mathematical system doesn't work. I need down range speed. I shot through my chrono at 30 yds and came close to what their charts say. But I'd hate to bullseye the chrono on account of a mistake.

[jerseyhunter]

Thanks g2 for the info , but more for the confidence. Like I said I had all the stuff but some times un sure of myself, which I shouldn't be. I got the broadheads and targets to within 1". Good form is surely the ticket. With some work on the rest, knocking point I.ve got the paper tuning down to what I believe is within an arrow width. I need better paper to be able to read the results correctly. But at 23 yds and only 1" differance in arrow impact. (not groups) not bad. Can't really shoot groups for fear of ruining good arrows. However I did shoot my slick trick first then the rest for a nice group. After that I was fearing for my $ and targets life. Thank you once again.

[nodog]

ORIGINAL: jerseyhunter
Thanks for any help. Just trying to be lazy and pic your brains to save time.

One of those guys that never reads the directions, aye.