Broadheads

zak123 · 07-08-2005, 11:39 AM

Does it matter if your broadheads are not lined up the same on every arrow? I shot some two blade Magnus Stingers last year, and the broadheads were not lined up the same on each arrow. One arrow would have a broadhead at 12o' clock and 6 o' clock, one at 3 o' clock and 9 o' clock, one at 11 o' clock and 5' o clock.They shot all over the place. I was shooting 27" 55 lb bow with the Gold Tip XT 3555 arrows. I realized they were underspined, so I went to the archery shop to buy some new ones. They told me to put some O-rings between the broadhead and the arrow, and to turn the broadhead until the blades were straight up and down. I did that and I shot great groups. I didn't think that it mattered if they were lined up with each other. Thanks

driftrider · 07-08-2005, 01:27 PM

If you made both changes at once it'd be hard to say whichchange made the difference, or both.If you're using offset or helical fletch, I wouldn't think that broadhead orientation would matter much since the arrowwould be spinning within a few feet of leaving the string.

Mike

Leverdude · 07-08-2005, 02:28 PM

I'v heard all kinds of theories from it just dont matter to you need to line the blades up with the fletching. (kinda hard with 2 or 4 blade heads)
My own experience leeds me to believe that the orientation of the blades doesnt matter so long as they are all the same. I put a blade on top & thats directly oposite my fletching but it males it instantly obvious if a head rotates a bit. I think it has to do with the shaft flexing upon release & the heads effecting how the shaft reacts when straightning out. I may be totally wrong but if I am I killed 7 deer, every one I shot at, last year the wrong way. I cant see whats wrong with that.

PABowhntr · 07-08-2005, 07:57 PM

Personally, I have never found any correlation between blade alignment and the orientation of the fletchings. Much more important is broadhead and insert alignment with the shaft. Incorrect alignment, in that case, can lead to very poor accuracy.

zak123 · 07-08-2005, 08:16 PM

I am not talking about the fletching and broadhead alignment, I am talking about the broadhead alignment on each arrow.

Dairy King · 07-08-2005, 08:24 PM

I didnt have any problems with my 4-blade 100 grains. I know that they werent lined up the same. I know because when I drew, 2 of them hit my riser on my old non-cutout riser. And I got awesome flight. I could as far as to say they flew better than field tips.

5 shot · 07-10-2005, 05:12 AM

http://www.broadheadtests.com/FAQ.html

JOE PA · 07-10-2005, 07:13 AM

I guess the short answer is that it shouldn't matter IF your bow is well tuned and you have adequate fletching control, and the broadheads are aligned with the arrow.

I think that it may matter more with the cut on contact, basically 2 bladed heads, especially if there is any poor flight as the arrow is starting on its way. My experience of over 10 years ago sounds like what you have seen. I was shooting Bear Razorhead lites, with the bleeders removed, since I didn't want to keep breaking them in a foam target. When I had the main blades lined up vertically (I also used o rings for this), the broadheads hit dead on with field points out to 40 yards. I was very pleased, thought I had finally figured out bow tuning. About a week before the season, I thought I should probably try one of the heads with the bleeder in, just in case they didn't fly the same like everyone told me they would. At 25 yards, the arrow (which had been flying right where I had been aiming it for weeks) veered down and hit the deer target in the leg! I thought maybe I had just made a really bad shot, so I took another arrow and BH without a bleeder, and it hit right where I was aiming. Tried the bleeder again, and it veered down and under the belly of the deer. I was absolutely crushed! In cases like that, I really think the way the arrow leaves the bow can make a huge difference, especially with that type of head. After that year, I spent another year of frustration trying to get the old outsert carbons to fly with broadheads. I finally learned to bare-shaft tune, and that pretty much eliminated the problems I had been seeing. I know some will disagree, but IMO, if you can get a bare shaft to fly straight out of your bow, you should be able to shoot any reasonable broadhead well, as long as the head is aligned with the arrow (spinning straight) and you have adequate fletch control. Once that is how things are, the orientation of the head to the fletch or whatever, doesn't matter very much.