I would consider myself a fairly good bow mechanic having tuned and torn down my fair share of bows, but this new allegance of mine I just plain can not tune to my standards. I've tried everything I can think of and get the same results every time, Bad bad fishtailing! Shooting thru paper I get a tear to the right every time shinking it down to about an inch and growing to two or three. Here's the skinny, Bowtech allegance set at 70#'s 29" draw. 27 1/2"carbon express teminator hunter select 6075 shafts at 12 grains per inchblazer vains a muzzy zero effect with125 grain feild tips and a TRU nok. I've already gone up from 100 gain tips and have used foot powder to check for fletching contact and have none. this is driving me nuts I put everything dead center and the best I get is maybe 2 out of 5 that look like they fly strait but the paper shows consistant tears right! Can anyone see somthing I don't I know its impossable to do when you can't see the problem but anything anyone can tell me will help, pleeeease, my wife begs of you.(I think I'm getting on her nervs) thanks.
Sounds to me like you've got the classic symptoms of underspined arrows. Maybe the arrows were mismarked as 6075's or perhaps the bow just wants a stiffer arrow than that?
this is driving me nuts I put everything dead center
Where do you have center shot set? From arrow centerline to riser equals?
That's a bit of an odd arrow set-up.......short shaft, very light tail end with a 125gr head. What's the FOC come out to on that finished arrow? Not saying that's the problem just curious.......nahhh nevermind that arrow is probably fine spine and FOC wise. It just sounded funny at first.
You sure about not having any fletching contact? I know the MZE works off the cable slide.. and the slide doesn't have much movement on the allegiance.
Also throw that tru nock away.. and just go w/ a straight string loop.
I would bet your "tru nock" is causing some problems. I have seen it before. I had a couple of tuning issues in the last year and just recently discoverd they were both due to either brass nocks used for speed buttons and those tru ball spider/speed ball silencers. Constant nock high tears that would "move to tail left as the nock was adjusted. I can't say that's your problem, but I would take a look at those items, provided you really have tried everything else.
Have you checked for any limb twist? Are your cams in alignment? I've seen bows that couldn't be tuned because they were defective or had very poor cam alignment.. First thing I check on any bow I buy, is the cam alignment. I would also check to be sure there isn't any "play" in the cams.
Thanks to all who replyed. It was definatly the tru nok. I removed it and just went with a single brass nock and bingo a small tear low, this brought a huge smile to my face as I new I could work with this, a turn and a half up with the nock and YATZEE! It was in the back of my mind I was just to stubern to remove a 15 dollar nock set.Sometimes the truth just sucks. Well at least I'm still married [&o].As far as my center shot set up all I've ever done is just eyeball it down the middle and line the arrow up with the string to get close and let the paper do the rest. Well gotta go sight in a bow got a 3-D shoot next weakend. Anybody looking for a tru-nok I know where you can get one cheap! Thanks Again.
ARRRRRRRR uncle uncle
as I new I could work with this, a turn and a half up with the nock and YATZEE! It was in the back of my mind I was just to stubern to remove a 15 dollar nock set.Sometimes the truth just sucks. Well at least I'm still married [&o].As far as my center shot set up all I've ever done is just eyeball it down the middle and line the arrow up with the string to get close and let the paper do the rest. Well gotta go sight in a bow got a 3-D shoot next weakend. Anybody looking for a tru-nok I know where you can get one cheap! Thanks Again.
