Bow Tuning
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ga
Posts: 2
Bow Tuning
I have a Bear Silent Hunter w/ a Cobra "The Cage" arrow rest. I have good groupings but they are to thr right of the target. My pins on my sight almost hide behind my bow as is is so moving the pins to the right is'nt an option. What can I do? If you need more info about the bow, please ask. I will be forever grateful!
#3
Is the bow tuned yet> If not it might be you have to move the rest to the left. If I were you I'd seek help from a proshop if you don't know how to tune. Start with paper tuning. If you need to move your rest to the left then the sight pins will most likely need to follow.
#4
If you are getting good groups I would take a look at the center shot first. A good starting point is that the shaft is inline or a half of a shaft left ( for a right hand shooter ) with the string. Just nock an arrow and look down the string to the point of the shaft and see where it sets.
CK
CK
#6
If your pins are hiding behind your riser, then you likely have your rest too close to the riser, which could mean a few things. If you have paper tuned (or walk back tuned) your bow and that's where it punches bullet holes, then I'd say you need to look at your cam/idler lean to correct your centershot (lean the cam/idler out a bit, move the rest out a bit, move your sight out a bit, bingo bango, problem solved).
Whenever I trouble shoot a bow, below is how I progress. Tuning your rest is a waste of time unless you have ensured the cables are tuned properly first, so start there, and work your way forward. Cables, rest, sight, then go kill something.
So, starting with the cam/idler lean: Measure the axle to axle length on BOTH SIDES of the bow. If your cables aren't properly balanced, it might be torqueing your limbs, so one side might be longer than the other. If the two measurements aren't the same, either balance the cables yourself, or take it to a shop to be done. If they ARE the same length, lay an arrow along the side of the idler pointing along the string. It should be roughly parallel to the string. If the arrow crosses under the string, or fans away, then you need to correct that, again, either by balancing the cables yourself, or taking it to a shop.
If the cables are balanced, then paper tune your rest.
If you paper tune your bow and the rest is too close to your riser, then you can add a little extra lean to the idler and cam to shift your string's movement more towards centershot instead of the riser. Be careful, however, that if you DO introduce lean, to have a friend examine your cam and idler while you hold at full draw (or put it in a hooter shooter or draw board) to make sure you don't have TOO much lean under draw. Too much lean might let your string jumps from the tracks and try to kill you if you torque the string or bow at all while drawing. (Generally your idler and cam WILL naturally lean away from the riser slightly under full draw, since the cables pulling across the stay induce torque on the limbs).
Once you have paper tuned and sighted in at short range, you should walk-back tune to confirm that the rest and sight are in line with the string travel.
Whenever I trouble shoot a bow, below is how I progress. Tuning your rest is a waste of time unless you have ensured the cables are tuned properly first, so start there, and work your way forward. Cables, rest, sight, then go kill something.
So, starting with the cam/idler lean: Measure the axle to axle length on BOTH SIDES of the bow. If your cables aren't properly balanced, it might be torqueing your limbs, so one side might be longer than the other. If the two measurements aren't the same, either balance the cables yourself, or take it to a shop to be done. If they ARE the same length, lay an arrow along the side of the idler pointing along the string. It should be roughly parallel to the string. If the arrow crosses under the string, or fans away, then you need to correct that, again, either by balancing the cables yourself, or taking it to a shop.
If the cables are balanced, then paper tune your rest.
If you paper tune your bow and the rest is too close to your riser, then you can add a little extra lean to the idler and cam to shift your string's movement more towards centershot instead of the riser. Be careful, however, that if you DO introduce lean, to have a friend examine your cam and idler while you hold at full draw (or put it in a hooter shooter or draw board) to make sure you don't have TOO much lean under draw. Too much lean might let your string jumps from the tracks and try to kill you if you torque the string or bow at all while drawing. (Generally your idler and cam WILL naturally lean away from the riser slightly under full draw, since the cables pulling across the stay induce torque on the limbs).
Once you have paper tuned and sighted in at short range, you should walk-back tune to confirm that the rest and sight are in line with the string travel.