My gf is getting me a lab when I graduate from college this spring. I am curious how to train it for hunting. Any suggestions, tips to help me out? What are some other things that would help, like a vest for the dog, or something like that. Thanks for all the help
By far, the finest training book(s) available are " Smartworks I" and " Smartworks II" by Evan Graham. You can order them direct from the author by going to www.rushcreekpress.com
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Ignorance can sometimes be cured, but stupid is forever.
Doc E &
HR UH MHR WR SR Black Forest Casey &
HRCH HR UH Sauk River Friar Tucker (titled at 12.5 months)
Let the puppy be a puppy. Don' t get in a hurry & put too much pressure on it. Depending on how far you wish to go with the training will determine the route you take. First, just let the dog find & chase planted pigeons, to let it have some fun & evaluate for yourself. Next I take the dog off birds & do the obedience work. A dog out of control is of no use. When you have a good handle on the dog, put it back on birds & do the field work. Don' t be surprised if the dog appears tentative at first, it' ll come around. I know this sounds simple enough but, it takes lots of dedication & time. There' s nothing more enjoyable than watching your dog working, & doing so under control.
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Phil.
" Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot." [:-]
BOWTECH THERE IS NO EQUAL. JUST THE EQUALIZER.
pdq has some great advice there. If you can, try to work your dog with other people who have some experience. Just don' t let them sell you their theories as gospel. Take the time to educate yourself like pdq suggested. Then, you will have a basis for evaluating any advice given.
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Days spent afield are golden, but those spent in the company of a good dog are truly precious.
Labs are great dogs and are always willing to please. Along with what is mentioned above, bonding with the dog is of utmost importance. Numero uno IMHO. Also, as with the training of any dog, the three most important components are repetition, repetiton, repetiton (obediance, handling, exposure to birds). Take your time with gun intro, too. You don' t want to make this mistake!
As for other things that may help. A vest is a good invest -- protects the dog from injury, as are boots. A doggie first-aid kit should be high on the list, also.
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Chessies CAN do more than waterfowl!!!
Great suggestions so far. Another that I think is very important is to make your dog bold. When they are young, I throw them in a coup with a couple of pigeons and let them chase and go crazy. If they catch one, call them over and tell them how great they are. The other thing I do for confidence is take them wherever I go. I keep a crate in my truck 365 days a year. They go to the store, to the lake, to church. Just watch the temps in the summer. I expose my dogs to everything possible. They are not shy and will learn faster in a variety of situations.
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Use a Big Lead to shoot them
were they aint.
After spending all the time training you rdog behavior and honig it' s hunting skills your gun introduction is the most important thing. Being a K 9 owner I know first hand from expierance and seeing others in action, that a dog can be trained as the best hunter, yet once the gun goes off, that dog wont hunt. Some dogs are naturally intimidated by noise. The only way to figure it out is through proper trial and error. As well as patience!!!!!! In the old days it use to be kick the dog out of the car let them run around then shoot a 12 ga. next to it. If the do did nt runaway for life it was a good thing. Thankfully we have, well some of us have evolved to a more gradual approach. Always reassure your lab before, during and after each exercise.
1. Start with things common in the house. ex: slamming door, clanging some pots and pans, or a movie on TV that has alot of shotem up action (OLD WESTERNS HUNTING SHOWS) Once your dog is at ease with these nosies and not running for cover under the bed take him or her out to the garage.
2. In the garage the old build a book shelf techinique seems to work well, loud car engine. Or even a firecrakcer if you could get away with it in your area. Yet dont lite a firecracker and throw it at your dog. Again once the dog is comfortable move onto the outdoors, to a firing range or skeet and trap range.
3. I recommend the trap range. Here you are able to stand back in observance while oputside others are using there ammunition for there competition shooting and sorts. Plus if your hunting in groups or ever hunt in a group your lab can exspect the pom pom of multiple firing. Maintin a comfortable distance. 100 yards or more and approach slowly only as much your pup will want. Never force it upon your pup, because they are timid at first, like all first timers. Only move on to the actuall hunt once your dog is able to stand behind the shooters at 15 yards. Then you should be ready to fire over your dog without spokening them.
In time your pup will either become comfortable and accept shooting near it or it will reject it. I have hunted around dogs since I was a child. In all of my year of hunting I have seen several dogs who have been down the golden road of training only to refuse to hunt once a gunshot is fired. Just remebr to rbing a leash with you because you may be hooking the dog to your belt when your in the field the first time.
The above is from expierance in my own trianing of both my dogs. Are training sessions are always going on. Sometime swe go out in the field and I wont shoot. Others when we are on a good hunt, we are filling our limits. f I wanted to, my yellow lab will let put a shot an inch over his head. Yet my beagle on the other hand. will stop hunting if any of us fire before she barks. Labs are easy trains, the beagles have stubborness. In time the above is true PERSISTANCE PAYS! Avoid the two no no' s, " if that dog dont hunt, he wont eat" or the " get the grass or I' m gonna pop you with this stick." neither pay off.
If you the trainer, are getting frustrated then it is time to stop. Patience will pay off.
help with training
