When reloading "FOR HUNTING" do you just look for an accurate high velocity load or do you consider what type of bullet will give the best performance on the game and distances it is being shot at?
For example I have shot a couple of deer with Rem. factory 250 grain bullets in my .35 whelen. It seems to me that these bullets may be ok for Elk, Moose and big bears but they went throught the deer without opening up and doing a great deal of damage. (three deer had to be followed up and shot again) I would like to load up a more fragile bullet if I am going to use the .35 whelen for deer again. {a 200 grain round nose?a 180 gr. flat nose? a 220 gr. flat nose? a 180 gr.Silhouette Jacketed Handgun? a 225 gr. Spitzer Partition?}
Handloading often seems "all about getting higher velocity and more accuracy." For a hunter, what happens to the bullet inside an animal is as important as "hair splitting accuracy".
I think that's the beauty of handloading...you don't have to pick. You can have both. (as long as your bullet selection is within reason) You can pick the bullet you want for its terminal ballistics and then "play" with it to get as accurate as possible.
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Handloading often seems "all about getting higher velocity and more accuracy." For a hunter, what happens to the bullet inside an animal is as important as "hair splitting accuracy".
Robin
Handloading to me is getting the right bullet for any given animal to shoot most accuratly, if the velocity is there good, if not oh well, I have the best bullet, and it shoots accuratly, I can figure the ballistics for it for any velocity.
In my experiance handloading is "all about" whatever my requirement is. If I am loading for hunting, I am going to start with a bullet that is appropriate - a hunting bullet chosen based on a number of criteria. If I am loading for plinking, I will probably choose about the cheapest bullet I can find. For match shooting, accuracy is all I would care about - would probably start with a match bullet.
I generally don't care too much maxing out velocity... as long as the velocity is approp. for what I am doing, that's all I care about. So for hunting I will generally look for a load in the upper 1/3 or so of the load range. For plinking - probably the lower 1/3.
Handloading often seems "all about getting higher velocity and more accuracy." For a hunter, what happens to the bullet inside an animal is as important as "hair splitting accuracy".
Robin
Handloading to me is getting the right bullet for any given animal to shoot most accuratly, if the velocity is there good, if not oh well, I have the best bullet, and it shoots accuratly, I can figure the ballistics for it for any velocity.
i have to agree also... none of my handloads except for very long range varmit stuff are very "hot" they are extremely accurate instead... i take great pains to make everything as consistant as possible... my hunting loads are a few tenths of a grain off of a middle of the road load... i don't care for the recoil of big heavy bullets burning the throats of my barrels out and for the ranges i shoot i don't need a mack truck when a duramax will do...
velocity ain't everything... if you can't hit the broad side of a barn or your shoulder is bruised for 3 days...
Jamie
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I choose the bullet first. Then pick two powders of nearly the same burn rate one stick, one ball, then let the rifle sort 'em out. The accuracy really has to be bad for me to abandon the bullet.
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Duffy I bet those 250 grainers are still traveling!
If you are accepting of round nose bullets, (some shooters just gotta have pointy lead!) I would suggest the 200 grain round nose for thin skinned critters like deer. Since you reload, you could go into the same lead that Remington loads for the 35 Remington if you need. I would be very surprised if that did not mushroom well for you.
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No, don't use 35 remington load data in a 35 Whelen. As far as the .358 corlokts go they are all the same whether it's used in a 35 rem or whelen. I like 180-200 gr hornady interloks for whitetail on top of 4064.
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