Casting ??????????

[harter66]

I started casting with my 357 an 45 colts and all went well with only 2 grns variance in weights and .002 in dia. Dia was attributed to the moulds (LEE) I had 453 s and 455s .and 357-359 . So thinking ... Self you can do this ...... I bought a 324 and a 309 . tried out the 324 out and had a terrible time getting good bullets I had to get the mould HOT like 400 degreesto get good bullets . So is this normal with the "smaller" dia bullets or just a quirk of this 1 mould ? I only got about one in 7-8 in the handle side cavity and about 6 for 10 in the forward cavity . These are Lee 2 cavity moulds "just to get into it" budget . Also how much "harder" are bullets that are water quinched than their air cooled counter parts ?

[johnny2]

You might be better off to move your question over to the muzzleloader section..

[Briman]

If you are using multi-cavity moulds from Lee, you will get some variation in diameter and weight from each cavity. 002" variationis too much. 2 gr of difference isn't bad for pistol bullets.

Lee moulds need a little tweaking and breakin to get tem to cast well. go here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=654 and do exactly what it says to do, it takes a little time but is worth it. I do this tweaking on all of my Lee moulds when I first get them.

If that doesn't work and you are still not filling the moulds out, try running your melting pot hotter and preheat your mould by casting several bullets in quick succession or setting your mould blocks on top of your melting pot for a few minutes. If this still doesn't work, add a bit of tin to your pot- I use about a 1' length of 50/50 soldering wire which is usually enough to get even skinny rifle bullets to fill out. A lot of references say to use about 1lb of 50/50 solder for every 10 lbs of alloy, especially wheelweight alloy, but I find this to be overkill- the tin is only meant to make the moulds fill out, and its expensive.

[eldeguello]

ORIGINAL: harter66

I started casting with my 357 an 45 colts and all went well with only 2 grns variance in weights and .002 in dia. Dia was attributed to the moulds (LEE) I had 453 s and 455s .and 357-359 . So thinking ... Self you can do this ...... I bought a 324 and a 309 . tried out the 324 out and had a terrible time getting good bullets I had to get the mould HOT like 400 degreesto get good bullets . So is this normal with the "smaller" dia bullets or just a quirk of this 1 mould ? I only got about one in 7-8 in the handle side cavity and about 6 for 10 in the forward cavity . These are Lee 2 cavity moulds "just to get into it" budget . Also how much "harder" are bullets that are water quinched than their air cooled counter parts ?

I find that to cast good bullets, a mould has to be quite hot. Generally, the more massive the bullet, the harder it is to get to fill out well. I like my moulds hot enough that it takes three to five seconds for the sprue to harden in the sprue plate hole after removing the ladle from the plate. The more tin you have in your alloy, the lowwer the temperature that you can get away with & still have good filled-out bullets with sharp edges on the lube grooves and bases. The biggest bullet I have ever cast is the Lyman 57730 570-grain Minie bullet for the .58 caliber. But I plan on making some .735" round balls for my Jaeger soon.

[eldeguello]

ORIGINAL: johnny2

You might be better off to move your question over to the muzzleloader section..

Ich ferstehen sie hier nicht. EsIst nicht ein fragge fur nur muzzleloadern.....

[harter66]

The 357 an 45s were from 3% antimony "floor" shotand I had good bullets from no 1 in the pot warmed moulds . Upon reflection it my have been my alloy.I had some battery post and terminal stuff for decoyanchors that may have been the pan flat that I used . If that is what I did would that explain the results?

[HEAD0001]

I have a couple of suggestons to try.

1. Get yourself into a cadence. Count out loud at first. Try to do each operation at the same count. Try this-it really works.

2. Yes your mold needs to be hot.

3. Just pick one cavity and cast from it. Do not try to cast from both cavities. I am sorry to say that you will have variances when using more than one cavity in a Lee mold.

4. IMO water quenching just speeds up the hardening process. It does not necessarily makes the bullets harder, it just makes them harder-faster. I do not water quench-I size and lube my bullets. So IMO water quenching is just "WORKING" the lead too much.

5. If you are not getting a full fill out then try a little Tin in your alloy. Personally I do not have a problem with fill out once I get my mold up to temperature, but that is just me. And i think it has to do alot with my cadence. I really believe in the cadence. For reloading and casting-I believe consistency is KING.

[HEAD0001]

ORIGINAL: harter66

The 357 an 45s were from 3% antimony "floor" shotand I had good bullets from no 1 in the pot warmed moulds . Upon reflection it my have been my alloy.I had some battery post and terminal stuff for decoyanchors that may have been the pan flat that I used . If that is what I did would that explain the results?

I do not think this would explain it. I honestly believe it is in your technique. I have made some really beautiful bullets, from some very crappy lead. Tom.

[harter66]

All good points and sugestions I will try them .Thanks

[TUK101]

One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is to make sure that you have fluxed well. I have found that my bullets have turned out much better out of my Lee moulds when I have fluxed the heck out of the lead. Also, with the Lee moulds, they do need to be pretty darned hot to get things filling out consistantly.