When developing hunting loads is the goal to develop the maximum load cartridge that will still hold a group? Or do you stop once you find a load above the starting charge that groups?
Tom
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I have come to understand that I really enjoy learning things the hard way.
That's your own personal preference. Say I reload my 25-06, do I want a close range load like the 250 savage, or a flat trajectory like the 257 weatherby. Either will do the job, it's just a question of whatyou want out of the load.
When developing hunting loads is the goal to develop the maximum load cartridge that will still hold a group? Or do you stop once you find a load above the starting charge that groups?
Tom
I tend to try to find what groups best. For instance, before I rebarreled my Sako to .300 Win Mag, it was a .300 Wby and one of the most accurate loads I ever shot through it was with the 165 gr. Hornady SST and H1000. It was about 5 grs. below max, but it was accurate and worked great. On the other hand, now that this rifle is a .300 Win Mag, it seems to shoot itsbest at the maximum charge.
Whether you prefer maxumum accuracy or maximum velocity is up toyou. Sometimes, though, youcan havethem both and that's a good thing.
As always, just depends what you want and expect. There is certain velocities I expect. I expect a 300RUM to get at least 3250-3300fps with a 180gr bullet. If it doesn't, I change powders, cause if I can't get that, might as well get a hot 300Win mag. I expect my 7mm08 to get 2750-2800fps with 140gr bullet.If it doesn't, I change powders. Same with my 308, 270s, STW's, 300Win mags, 243's, 30-30's, 34-70'setc. All have a range of velocities that people are used to seeing. And I expect at lest that. 45-70 is the exception. I wanted to get at least 2000fps with a 300gr partition, and finally found the powder to do it. some people only want target 405gr 1300fps loads.
Depends on what your looking for. I know for my 44mag. I wanted a lower recoiltarget load, so I used 10gr of Unique and 240grcast bullet, not the fastest on the block, but its what I wanted.Propably only shooting 1050fps. But I also wanted afast moving pig load,so I shoot 23.5gr of H110 and 240gr XTP. Kickin about 1400fps.
I asked this question because I've now tried three different bullets, Nosler Partition 180gr, Nosler Ballistic Tip 168gr and a Nosler Silver Tip 150 gr and they all shot the same out of my Ruger MK II in 300WM. They were all loaded with the same powder. They all have the same relative accuracy but if I had to choose I'd say the 180's were slightly better.
They were all made with the recommended starting load. Do I increase from here or change to a different powder?
The accuracy was ok. Maybe 1.25-1.5" at 100yds.
Tom
__________________
I have come to understand that I really enjoy learning things the hard way.
I asked this question because I've now tried three different bullets, Nosler Partition 180gr, Nosler Ballistic Tip 168gr and a Nosler Silver Tip 150 gr and they all shot the same out of my Ruger MK II in 300WM. They were all loaded with the same powder. They all have the same relative accuracy but if I had to choose I'd say the 180's were slightly better.
They were all made with the recommended starting load. Do I increase from here or change to a different powder?
The accuracy was ok. Maybe 1.25-1.5" at 100yds.
Tom
I beleive most of us, usually stick with one bullet at a time. I know I do. Darn things are too expensive these days. So I go with starting load and work my way up to max. Pick the most accurate load of the bunch. Generally, my most accurate is near max about 2 gr under or in the middle.. I say keep going up in powder load until max or until groups start noticably falling off.
I think most people want both. Accuracy and velocity. If your only hunting shots will be a short 150 yards or less then what is the difference between a hundred yard 0.345 inch or 1.423 inch group. Nothing. Either will enable you to put your round through the heart every time at that distance. On the other hand if you get shot opportunities out to 300 yards or so, then accuracy starts to become a major factor. I could not take a long shot without knowing where the round is going to impact. Velocity gives more energy upon impact, but means nothing if you don"™t know where that impact is going to occur. I would rather shoot an accurate 308win that an inaccurate 30-378 weatherby at 350 yards. A proficient shooter can compensate for bullet drop, but nothing can compensate for an inaccurate rifle and round combination. There in lies the perfection most reloaders strive for. By playing with different powders, primers, cases, bullets, seating depths, crimps, and ways of case sizing we try to achieve the best combination that our rifle will shoot, that we accept. That is both the joy and unique frustration of reloading to me. I want a fast round, so I am taking the time to go through each variable to achieve the best possible round I can.
I load for accuacy if accuracy or velocity has to suffer, I will choose accuracy always wins out. Some powders and loads may give you both. It also depends on what your hunting, the old swede kills deer like a bolt from the blue at 2500 fps same with the 308 at 2700 fps. when I get good accuracy with any load over that velocity for deer, I am set to go.
I try different combinations of primers, powder, bullets, and seating depth untill I find the optimum accuracy and velocity,for that rifle and a chosen bullet. Good luck.
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PROUD HUNTERS KILL THEIR GAME THEY DON'T HARVRST THEM!!
Reloading Theory
