I am going to buy a Nikon Monarch 5-20x44, BDC. This scope is by far the most expensive scope I have ever purchased. I want to make sure I do all I can to take good care of this sucker. Who would you trust to mount a scope and how much does it cost? Do you just do it yourself? If so, are there any tricks or anything that I should know? I just want to make sure it is done correctly to ensure the longevity of my new baby. Thank you for your help. Chris
I bought my Nikon from Optic Zone and I'm buying my new rifle from Bass Pro next week. They're going to mount, loc-tite, and boresight my scope on my rifle for free. Then it's just a matter of me putting some rounds through it to make sure everything is lined up. You could probably take it to a Bass Pro if you have one in your area. They may charge you if you didn't buy anything there. Or a local gun shop. You should be able to find plenty of information and procedures for moutning scopes on the internet. Google it!
__________________ Ted Kennedy's car has killed more people than my handgun...
It's not that difficult to mount a scope. Never use the permanent Loctite. Use Locktite Blue, sparingly. Make sure the crosshairs are level/plumb, and shoulder the rifle to position the scope for eye relief and cheek weld before tightening the screws. I checkeye reliefwith clothes on that I intend to hunt with.Buy quality rings and mounts. And if you feel uneasy about doing it yourself, have the gunshop mount it for you. Most do it for free if you purchased the scope or rifle there.They will also bore-sight the scope for you, although it is something you can do yourself.Hope this helps.
Except for extreme application loctite is nothing more than added security. I use it on my 375 JDJ contender pistol for this security. On my tactical rifle I don't use or need it. Soft scope rings which do not hold torque need it. You might use that as a way to determine that you really need better rings.
To just assemble the pieces, is easy and that is what most shops do for like free to $50. With a one piece base, you should bed the base and rely on quality rings and bases to line up well. A two pc base definately needs bedding or lapping of the rings. Another alternative is the TPS bedding alignment jig for 2 piece bases. If ring quality is a slight concern, lap the rings too.
Last is the Burris Signature mount. These plastic inserts are probably the bestcheap way to mount a scope on a low or moderate(< 458 Win Mag) recoiling rifle. That is just a bolt on deal.
The last way is the $35 rings and bases. Your results are a crap shoot. It might be perfect, or it might kink your tube. Good luck. One thing you will know is it will not hold torque and will come loose when you want it to work, even with loctite. Also, dropping or banging your rifle slightly will result in the need to resight in.
It's not that difficult to mount a scope. Never use the permanent Loctite. Use Locktite Blue, sparingly. Make sure the crosshairs are level/plumb, and shoulder the rifle to position the scope for eye relief and cheek weld before tightening the screws. I check eye relief with clothes on that I intend to hunt with. Buy quality rings and mounts. And if you feel uneasy about doing it yourself, have
I have a scope on my .22 that I had mounted at Dicks Sporting Goods when I bought the .22 and the scope. I've just never taken the scope off. However, the other two guns I have with scopes I've mounted them myself. The 30-06 has a Leupold on it that was mounted and bore sighted when I bought the gun and scope but after having problems with the scope and having to send it off I put a Tasco on there until I got it back then I removed the Tasco and put the Leupold back on when it came back. Then the muzzle loader has a cheapo Tasco which I also just put on myself. It takes all of 30 seconds and I've never had an issue. Not yet anyway.
I will say though the scopes I've just put one have been just as close if not closer than the ones I've had boresighted so I no longer have that done. Espeically since most places charge if you don't buy the scope from them.
Bore sighting is a gimmick. You can bore sight by pulling the bolt out and comparing what you see there to what you see through the scope at 25 yards and do ok.
Bore sighting is a gimmick. You can bore sight by pulling the bolt out and comparing what you see there to what you see through the scope at 25 yards and do ok.
That's what I do. No big deal, use a large paper to shoot at. I never used a bore-sight tool. Just make sure you have a solid rest so the rifle doesn't move when you move to adjust the scope.
The last way is the $35 rings and bases. Your results are a crap shoot. It might be perfect, or it might kink your tube. Good luck. One thing you will know is it will not hold torque and will come loose when you want it to work, even with loctite. Also, dropping or banging your rifle slightly will result in the need to resight in.
maybe im just lucky but i have never spent more than 10$- 40$ on a set of rings and bases on any of my guns and i have never had a problem. ive banged and dropped a few over the years. i know you get what you pay. lapping and bedding ive never done.
Yall seem to be forgetting a crucial step in scope mounting. I cannot remember how many scopes I've seen with "ring marks". These are caused by3 things-ring misalignment and/or neglecting to lap steel rings in(exception being burris sig rings with plastic inserts),or overtightening. If you go to a basspro or d**ks,they won't do the same job that a gunsmith or knowledgeable tinkerer will. You're spending a lot of money to waste by damaging scope by improper mounting. You CAN buy scope lapping equipment at midway.brownells and other places. All it takes is a 1" steel bar with handle welded on and lapping compound to lap scope rings and a simple double pointer to assure the rings are aligned perfectly. Remember-ring marks are not only uneccesary-they are also indication of scope damage.
__________________
Sometimes you earthlings REALLY amaze me!
Scope mounting
thats what im tryin to say...
