muleyman

Yes, I use a kestrel 2800 to measure wind, and have a watch with a built in barometer. any smith can install a brake for you, its loud but if you can't keep the target in the scope during impact, you'll lose alot of game.RR

Yes I have a rangefinder, a leica 1200 LRF, for 1000 yard shooting it is the best cheapest rangefinder you can use, next step up is a swuaro then the new leica 1600.No mil dots, but I can use them, 1 mil is 3.6" per every hundred yards of range, to use them with any speed ya need a "mil-dot master" I use a pda loaded with a small program called exbal, I give it the atmospheric conditions, MV, height of scope and the "actual BC of my bullet" and the range and wind, it tells me what adjustments I need. Don't worry about humidity, or temp while hunting, worry about barometric pressure, thats the biggie know your bar pressure you can leave the altitude at zero and go for it. Bar pressure actualy changes the bullets BC. once you understand this stuff, get your drop chart tuned, its not nearly as hard as you think.RR

yep thats all it does, just puts your scope on at a slant so its slightly pointed down, then when you sight in your adjustment is off centered giving you 20 moa of additional up. My rifle sighted dead on at 300 yards is about 2.25" high at 100, my scope is 2.1" above center of bore, so with a 300 yard zero I'm never more than 3 inches high from 0-100, just hold lower third on the shoulder.here is a source for a 20 moa base www.seekinsprecision.com RR

3) I do nothing special, I trim them all to the same length before loading the first time, from then on I just load/shoot and anneal every third loading. But keep in mind I have a full house custom rifle that just shoots anything well, stuff it likes is scary accurate.RR</p>

1) for shooting 1000 yards or more I'd pick the 7 RUM, more velocity with the same bullet means less drift and drop, due to the higher velocity raises the BC a bit and time of flight is shorter so the wind has less time to push it around. also the 7 Rum with a 160 gr accubond needs 3.5 less MOA of up to make a 1000 yard zero from a 300 yard sight in, thats actualy 35 inches less drop. anything you get ya need a brake on it, you have to be able to see the impacts through the scope.2)either will make 1000 on less than 35 MOA of up, however, the closer you get to the end of travel of the scope, they don't track as well. On my rifles I have a 20 MOA sloped base, so on a 1000 yard zero I'm about center of my adjustments, from a 300 yard zero I have 55 MOA of up left in the scope. continued....

sure, let'er ripRR