CZ2506

In the last few years the OAL of 117gr SST's for my 25-06 Rem has increased about .200", so I'm pretty sure the throat is eroding. Groups have opened up to 1.5-2 MOA. I'm debating whether to re-barrel (probably to .270Win) or just buy a new rifle. I was thinking about a used rifle, but I don't want to get somebody else's shot out barrel. Cost is going to be about the same, but would I have a better shooter with a re-barrel?

jeepkid

Get a chrome moly Shilen for $175 and you'll have a shooter..browning a - bolts are very true from the factory...

Nomercy448

I'm not reading an apples to apples comparison here:

Buying a brand new pair of underwear has a very different implication compared to buying a "slightly used" pair of underwear at the same price.

Applying a certain dollar amount for a used rifle - as you mentioned, with unknown barrel life remaining - is not the same value as the same dollar amount applied to a brand new barrel, even if it was just an unfired take-off factory barrel, let along comparing against a custom tube.

I'd rebarrel. It sounds like you'll be break-even on cost if you don't sell your rifle, or you'd be break-even on legwork to compare selling your current rifle against finding a barrel and a smith. But getting a known quantity brand new barrel is a better value than getting an unknown quantity in the used rifle.

stalkingbear

If you opt for a top quality barrel made by a top name manufacturer it'll be much better (more uniform) than any factory barrel with much closer tolerances, so it SHOULD shoot better. Having said that, it's unusual for a A-Bolt to be that inaccurate. I'd sure be rebarreling if it didn't shoot better than that!!!! Of course whatever brand you choose, forewarning the top names will have a waiting list. ALWAYS get the top quality level no matter what brand you choose. Are you leaning toward button rifled, forged, or cut rifling? A book could be wrote on just barrels alone (and has).

CZ2506

Thanks for the feedback. I was leaning toward re-barreling. I tried out some new rifles this weekend, and none of them really felt as comfortable as my Browning. But I've been shooting it for 25 years. Probably close to 3000 rounds. It used to shoot less than .85 MOA out to 400 yards. Bone stock (except for trigger spring) with a 22" sporter barrel. So I'm pretty sure the action is true. Think I'll go with a 24" sporter bbl in .270 Win.

jrbsr

First try cleaning the barrel real good.
It may just need to be cleaned.
Copper fouling can make it shoot bad.
It is a lot cheapper than a new barrel.

JMHO

Nomercy448

Copper fouling wouldn't explain why his OAL has grown 1/5 of an inch.

jrbsr

I didn't notice that bit of information.

When I was in gunsmithing school, I fixed a Mauser 98 - 22-250 that had a bad spot in the chamber by
trimming the barrel, threading the barrel a little father, and reaming it back.


You could have a gunsmith look at it to see if it can be done on your rifle.

stalkingbear

I recently built a 35 Whelen Browning A-bolt from a unfired new A-bolt in 30-06 that I made a classic stock for w/shadowline cheekpiece from exhibition grade claro walnut and I used the best Douglas has to offer blank, ans fitted/threaded/chambered/turned down myself. It groups around 3/4" for 5 shots at 200 yards. So rebarreling is a worthwhile reasonable cost option.