Most everyone more than likely won't want to hear this, but here I go.
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Like James bases are but rings aren't. In years of using leupold rings never had a problem ? with this method. Not only that I have a scope switch habit and even the loopy torks can strip so I refrain from the loctite on the rings. I have noticed in many cases that rings that are left and used in our climate actually almost seize anyhow and removing without loctite can be a royal PITA.
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I'm in FL. Our %RH just started going under 90% 2 or 3 weeks ago. My screws are all done with blue locktite, I've got no problems with seizing. What torque are your ring screws set at? T15 screws should be torqued to 15 inch pounds, at least the ones I'm using. Different size fasteners of course require different torques. The blue locktite coats the threads and protects them from corrosion. Consistant, specified torque on the fasteners places an even, exact grip on the most delicate, precise piece of equipment on your rifle, the optics. When you go to bust them loose, it will require more than 15" lbs to break the locktite, but 15" pounds is what the fastener will be torqued to. And, your Torx head won't strip out! Below is a picture of 2 Seekonk torque wrenches. The one on the left is a 15"lb wrench, the one on the right is a 65"lb wrench. These are dedicated wrenches, but there are range adjustable wrenches out there, such as Proto. They are not cheap.
Am I suggesting to you statjunk, that you run out and buy a wrench to mount your scope on your 336? Of course not. But you should be aware of the correct way to mount your scope. I'm not being snobbish statjunk, I've got a 336AW myself (made for sale at Walmart), but there are those who spend big$ on their rifles and scopes and hunting trips, then they wonder why their scope does not perform or why it is all buggered up. And, statjunk, I'm sure your hunting setup is just as important to you. So, you might look into borrowing a proper wrench.
By now, I'm sure there are quite a few who are yucking it up.
But just think. How many scopes have you seen, and heard about, that were badly marred or even ruined because the scope was placed in rings that were out of alignment and/or overtightened? If your scope rings are too tight, or out of alignment, or both, what do you think that does for the repeatablity of your elevation and windage adjustments?
To ensure that rings are in alignment, they must be lapped, except Burris Signature Rings, but those have recoil limitations. Lapping takes all of 30-45 mins. and it is not messy. Hey, as a kid I couldn't ever color inside the lines and I don't make a mess when I lap. You should have a towel over your action, just in case.
So, why I'm I bringing the subject of lapping into this thread? Because, if you torque your fasteners, instead of tightening them until they feel tight enough, or until your scope stops slipping:-( , you need the increased metal to metal contact. The extra surface area will help grip your scope better and more precisely. But if you lap too much, the rings won't grip. You should get at least 70% of the ring surface lapped. Your ring halves should not touch when tightened on the lapping tool. Before you lap, any sharp edges on the rings that contact the scope should be chamfered (go easy!) with a dremel. And, never use your scope as any kind of hand tool!
(Hey, I had to add that. As an R.O., I once saw a shooter(?) adjusting his scope with a pair of channel locks! I wanted to ask if he needed the pipe wrench that I had out in my truck, but after all, he was armed!)
Another way to grip your scope better, especially essential for high recoil rifles, is batter's rosin. A bag sells at Walmart for under $2. After you have lapped, cleaned, and cold blued the ring surface, you dust the ring surface with the batter's rosin bag. The rosin dust really grabs onto your scope, with no interference like tape, or mess.
There's another benefit to all of this. If you remove the scope to sell it, the resale value will be much higher with out those ugly ring marks. One increased scope resale value could easily pay for everything involved with this, but the torque wrench. Several could easily pay for the torque wrench. I've never regretted buying a quality tool.
Oh, yea. Fasteners and tapped holes should be cleaned thoroughly with alcohol or better yet, denatured alcohol, before using locktite. If you use blue locktite on your ring screws, it should be applied sparingly, onto the screw itself, dabbed on with a toothpick or similar. Not globbed on, but spread into the threads. If you glob it on, it will run down into your bottom ring halve and make a mess. I torque my fasteners while doing a cross pattern. Then I remove them 1 at a time, apply locktite, and retorque.
Lock Tight or Not to Lock Tight
