BASEBALLCRAZY

I HAD PROBLEMS SIGHTING IN MY BROWNING A-BOLT 270. AT 25 YARDS I COULD HIT THE BULLSEYE, AT 100 YARDS I HAD PROBLEMS JUST HITTING THE TARGET. A GUY AT THE SHOOTING RANGE SHOT THE GUN AND THOUGHT THAT THE TRIGGER WAS TO HEAVY. WOULD THE FACTORY TRIGGER SETTING BE ENOUGH TO CAUSE THIS? THE SCOPE IS A BUSHNELL ELITE 3200 3X9X40MM (NEW) AND I WAS SHOOTING 130 GR WINCHESTER SUPER X POWER POINT BULLETS.SHOULD I TRY SHOOTING A DIFFERENT BRAND OF BULLETS? THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Sharpshot_71

Well im no expert, so i probably shouldnt be giving advice, but i will take my stab at what i think is causing your problems. The trigger pull could be enough to make you miss at 100 yards. Where are you missing becasuse if you are consistantly missing to the right (assuming your a right handed shooter) then it is probably the trigger pull, becasue you are jerking to the right. At 100 yds that would make a bigger differance then at 25 yds, but i dont know about enough to make you miss at 100 yds. It might be the bullets. From what i hear some guns just dont like some bullets, and that gun and those bullets just might not get along.

stubblejumper

Depending on your mounts and rings,being dead center at 25 yards may result in being a fair distance from the bullseye at 100 yards.If you have high rings or see through mounts,you might not even be on the paper at 100 yards.I would try shooting at 50 yards to check the point of impact and adjust from there.Either that or use a very large piece of cardboard at 100yards.A heavy trigger pull can prevent you from shooting your best,but it should not keep you off of the paper at 100 yards.

1dahunter

I always start at 50 yard when sighting in my scope and with a .270 if its dead on at 50 it will be dead on at 100. Try this to see if its trigger pull site at 100 yards and slowly pull your trigger to where it suprises you when it goes off and if you hit where you were aiming then it is trigger pull. If not then site in at 50 yards and when zeroed try at 100 it should be the same as it is at the 50 if not try a different load.

stubblejumper

While this may be true with some guns and loads do not expect it to be with your gun and load.Variables such as ring height,bullet weight and velocity will prevent this from being true in many cases.

handloader1

Did you check your scope mounting system for loose screws, or warn parts? Good luck.

FiremanWV

I am going to pick up my new browning a bolt 270 in the next week or so. I did some reading on browning on their we page and saw where the barrel needs to be broken in. They reccomend firing 2 shots, cleaning with a good copper solvent, firing 2 more shots and cleaning do this for a total of ten shots then zero. I also hear that there is a pretty heavy trigger pull, is this adjustable with the Browning?

Georgetownboys

Don't know much about Browines, only have one brush gun for pigs, but I did find that my rem. 700 came with the trigger from the factory WAY to tight. Unless I was real real careful on the bench I was pulling as much as 4 inches to the right at 100yards consistantly. Since then I adjusted the tirgger and it is now much lighter and no more pulls to the right, for a right hander.

zekeskar

Could be ...

trigger pull - have a gun smith check it out. Mine was really heavy. It made a little difference in being able to smootly fire a round -not a HUGE difference, but a little difference.

scope mounting - make sure everything is tight -bases and rings. When you adjust it, be aware that it can move with the shot - that is, if you turn the adjustment, it can "stick" and not go to the point you are trying to get to until AFTER the shot. Therefore, you shoot, adjust and see no change in the shot. The way to get around this is to tap the scope with your knuckle or a little rubber hammer (like a reflex hammer; they make them for scopes) after you adjust it, but before you shoot. This can happen with really good scopes as well as cheaper ones.

barrel/action - make sure everything is tight

defective scope - this would be checked out if all the others don't help. YOu'd have to send it in, or mount a different, known accurate scope on your gun, sight it in and see if it works better.

MY GUESS: the rest you're using - what are you using for a rest? If you're not using a good solid rest, it can make a huge difference. I bought a cheap (like $40) vice type bench rest and it made zeroing the gun soooo much easier. I used to use sand bags and they work OK also, but this vice works better. Plus it gives me a good way to hold the gun at home when I'm working on it.

But, if you do use a solid bench rest, after you get it zeroed, be sure to practice a lot WITHOUT it!

Good luck and tell us what you find out.

Mac1

I realize that this is not the same caliber as yours, but the same will hold true for both guns. I sighted in my .17 rimfire at 100 yards. At 10 yards in order to hit dead center, I have to aim 2 inches HIGH. At 20 yards I aim 1 inch HIGH. The line of sight and the bullet don't come together until around 50 yards.
If you are hitting dead on at 25. Take five steps then fire another round and adjust to hit the bullseye. Take five more and fire again. Continue this until you are out there at 50 yards. Then try a 100 yard target....but remember, if you miss by one inch @100, it will be a 2 inch miss @200, and a 4 inch miss @300. It doubles every hundred yards or so.
For deer hunting, the rifle is always zeroed @200.
I really don't think the problem is trigger pull. Get on the target first, then tweek the trigger. I hope this helped.