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Talk me out of, or into, a Take-down?

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Talk me out of, or into, a Take-down?

Old 06-29-2015, 07:59 AM
  #11  
Nontypical Buck
 
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You will no doubt be soldering on a barrel band and perhaps an extra recoil lug even if you do not end doing either a switch barrel or take down rig. I am a big believer in crossbolts and the extra lug for the big rifles. I often learn the hard way.

This link is my solution to take down rifles - http://www.nalpak.com/Tuffpak-1050-G...shioned-Handle

The one that I use is a little bit different as it utilizes a padlock. In airports and hotels most people think I am wheeling around my golf clubs.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:31 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Nomercy448
I know that heating barrels tends to make guys itchy, but silver soldering is not an issue if a guy knows what they are doing (if ya just drop your barrel in the furnace, she'll get too hot - but that's not the right technique). Guys have been silver soldering on barrels for hundreds of years. Front sights on single action revolvers like the Colt or Ruger Vaquero are the most common instance of this that most guys are familiar with, but there are lots of other instances of modern designs using this process. Barrel bands, banded front sights, many rear sights, front sight bases on Ruger Super Blackhawks, vent ribs on shotguns, alignment/regulation lugs for double barrel guns, and the list goes on - lots of stuff still gets silver soldered to barrels every day.

It ain't a cheap/fast process and it does require skilled labor, so companies are looking for ways to eliminate that step in their production process, but it's nothing foreign.
Oh I know it's not foreign. But what you are proposing will take a lot more heating around the barrel end to solder it well enough to withstand recoil. Spot heating long enough for the "spot welds" such as front sites and such doesn't require long heating cycles like what you will have to do to do a proper soldering. Keeping that barrel end at silver soldering heat can destabilize your temper. Just food for thought. Wouldn't want to see you do this and lose an eye or something because your chamber blew apart. Chromoly can be a very ill tempered metal to deal with. It takes bends and stuff extremely well but when you start messing around in 800+ degree heat then you start getting iffy. Stainless is even more so a pain in the rear as it is pretty heat sensitive as well.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:31 AM
  #13  
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Just a thought but wouldn't a rifle barreled action and the stock be close to as compact when disassembled? You could pillar/glass bed a stock or even better aluminum bedding block and have it quick take apart and quick reassembly for a LOT less cost, and it wouldn't wear the barrel threads like a true take down would. If bedded properly, it will come apart & reassemble with no change in impact, and still be about as short, depending on barrel length.
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:28 PM
  #14  
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Did you ever make a decision? I for one would really like to see your results.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:02 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Big Uncle
Did you ever make a decision? I for one would really like to see your results.
Still working on it, kinda. I definitely need to try my hand at a takedown, but I have other projects in line ahead of it.

I did change my mind a bit - the rifles I'm building for my wife and I will be large enough projects within themselves, so I bought another Ruger Hawkeye All-Weather as a potential donor, and I do have this CZ .416Rigby action that would be suitable (so terribly sad this thing is blued).

I'm favoring these actions, despite their CRPF design, over the Rem 700 because I believe the integral recoil lug on the action will be easiest to play with - I can bed the lug solid into the rear half of the stock, put a mating plate with an indexing pin at the front of the action and collared around the barrel threads, then let them lock in place. With a Rem style recoil lug, the lug wouldn't be supported not secured to the action when the barrel was removed, so I think it just invites problems.
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