Savage Mark 2 Target - Accutrigger?

JOE PA · 10-10-2009, 06:07 PM

I recently bought my son a Savage Mark 2 target rifle for him to compete with his High School rifle team. This gun is a good size and weight for him, and has the target sights he needs. The problem is the trigger. It actually has 3 "stages" where it creeps a lot, creeps a little more, then fires. I see the new Savage guns have the accutrigger. Just wondering if anyone knows if we can buy a separate accutrigger to put on my son's gun to help him out a little.

frank78 · 10-10-2009, 06:48 PM

I personally don't care fortheAccutrigger as it leaves to much room for error. My 243 bolt action was nothing nice to shoot cuz the triggerr was either too sensitive or too stiff, never just right. I believe that the Accutrigger is patented to Savage Arms, so you would have to contact them.

Centaur 1 · 10-11-2009, 07:29 AM

Check out these tricks on rimfirecentral.com. I just did a trigger job for a friend earlier this week on a mark 2. It took me about an hour and half and the trigger has zero creep and it breaks at two pounds. I had to buy some shim stock from ace hardware and I had to do a little polishing with my dremmel. All in all, it cost me less than $5 and a little time.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ad.php?t=46774

JOE PA · 10-11-2009, 03:02 PM

Thanks for that awesome link. We got the gun at a good price, and it looked like it would serve the purpose, but the trigger was pretty tough to get consistent with. We ordered the front sight insert set, and he shot on Friday for the first time. After getting it sighted in, he was able to put 10 shots into a spot less than a dime in size from a bench off of bags. The gun is capable, and the trigger job will give him a fighting chance to compete with some of the "hot shots" on the team that pretty consistently shoot in the 90s. Great link and pics. Off to get the shim stock and will get to the trigger job this week. Might try a little stock bedding too. Kinda strange how they have the rear bolt pulling the middle of the action into basically thin air. Did a lot of glass bedding and trigger work a few years back. Nice to get back into it. Thanks again!

Centaur 1 · 10-12-2009, 08:32 AM

I also used the shim stock to make two washers that are .005" thick. I placed one on each side of the trigger to remove the sidee to side slop. The trigger housing is made from bent sheet metal, so the amount of washers may differ. The sides of the housing weren't totally parallel, the amount of clearance varied from .011" to .014" so I used a total of .010" so that there wouldn't be any binding.

JOE PA · 10-13-2009, 06:01 PM

Thanks very much for your help and the link. I just got finished with the work, and we are both very pleased with the trigger now. It has to be at least 3 # to be shot in competition, so I couldn't go real light, but it breaks without creep now. He was able to shoot an 88/100 this afternoon with the creepy trigger, so with a little more work, he should be in the '90s soon. A new problem is the extractor is not consistently pulling the fired cases out. I tried working on that a little tonight, with little change. May have to take it to a gunsmith. The gun shoots very well, but it certainly is made very cheaply when you look at the parts.

Thanks again, Centaur