I finally made it out to the range to sight in my new scope. I have a Leupold VX-II 4x12 with high rings on my Browning A-Bolt 270WSM. Using a Leupold bore sighter I seemed to have maxed out the scope adjustment. Foolishly, I didn' t note where the pointer was when it started, but trying to bring the elevation line down I started feeling resistance. Initially the elevation was up near the top of the bore sighter. Additionally, it seemed as if I to make a greater number of clicks than should have been necessary. Then again, I always seem to need twice the number of clicks to make the adjustment I' m looking for.
Got out to the range and I was shooting way high, about nine inches high at 50 yards. I used to have a 3x9 on that rifle, it was sighted in ok.
I' m at a point where I don' t think that I can bring the elevation down any further. I don' t want to force it and end up breaking the scope.
There is a fairly simple solution. Your 4X12 VXII comes with 50 minutes of elevation. Crank your elevation to the top. Once at that point begin cranking down the elevation. Make sure you are counting the clicks, you should be able to feel/hear 200 clicks before you reach the bottem of your adjustments. If you feel any pressure prior to reaching approx 200 clicks keep cranking. Either there is a tight spot or you will bust the mechanics. However, that is the reason people purchase Leupolds, LIFE TIME WARRANTY. Just send in it in for repair, and they will certainly correct the problem and probably have it back to you inside 2 weeks. If you are able to crank the scope all the way down 200 clicks and you still don' t have enough adjustment on your scope, ensure that the reticle is actually moving by shooting at paper,t ry a different set of rings/bases or take it to your friendly gunsmith as there is nothing wrong with the scope!
If the scope turns out OK which it probably will,get a set of Burris signature rings and the offset inserts kit.The mounts are tops and will never dent,stress,or mar your nice scope while holding from slippage way better than most.They use nylon inserts inside the ring around the scope and these inserts can be used with positive and negative offsets to correct for mount imperfections and other problems while keeping you in the center of your adjustment range.No shims to mess with and have mark up your scope tube and no more expence than most other premium rings.I use them on all my scopes and it greatly improves scope resale value with no ring marks at all.Good Shooting!
woods
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I' ll throw in my $.02. I just bought a set of Leupold rings and bases for my gun. I have a problem if this is a comon occurance. Leupold doesn' t sell cheap rings or bases. In fact Leupold sells some of the more expensive rings and bases. I did not pay for rings that need to be shimmed. Is this common among all manufacturers? I hope I do not have problems.
First, tell us the rest of the dimensions for your scope, is a 40 or 50 mm objective. If it' s 40 mm the high rings should probably be swapped out with mediums and that would probably take care of the problem. Are you using the same rings the the 3x9 was in? Was the 3x9 also a vx-II? different manufacturer/model scope different mechanics.
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Thanks for the help everyone. I gave Leupold a call, they' re going to put a set of shims in the mail today. The fact that they have these shims readily available tells me that this happens, but how common it is remains a question.
It' s kind of curious, as my ' only' change was the rings and scope. My old scope was the VX-II 3x9 40mm on low rings, the new scope is VX-II 4x12 40mm on high rings (could have used mediums, just couldn' t find them in stock). The old 3x9 didn' t have this problem. That leaves me to think that it' s either the rings being slightly off, or a problem with the scope. Like Woodseye stated, its probably not the scope, but then again you never know. A bad one is going to sneak through sooner or later.
I did as Tikka 300 suggested, adjusted the elevation all the way up and back. 240 clicks top to bottom give or take a few (I have a real short attention span!). I' ll have to get my buddy' s bore sighter again and see if by itself that helped.
The 3x9 went on the Sako 30-06, which I also started sighting in yards this weekend. Nothing against the Browning, but the Sako shoots like a dream. The Sako rings are similar to what Woodseye describes for Burris, very nice implementation.
This is quite common as small variations in the scope,rings & bases do occur & it doesn' t take much to throw your scope out.
The easiest solution is to center your scope(count the total number of clicks & half it & you should be close)boresight it & figure how far out your scope is(approx)Then shim it.
I use cut outs from aluminium coke cans which are about 3 thousandths of an inch thick,1 thousandth of an inch will move your scope 1 inch approx at 100 yards so a coke can shim would move it 3 inches approx,by placing the shim under the scope in the front ring you will lower the point of impact by 3 inches for each shim.
If it takes 4 clicks at 100 yards to move your scope 1 inch at 50 yards it will take 8 clicks & at 200 yards you will only need to move it 2 clicks,this can be confusing so I always work it all out on paper first before going to the range.
Once you have it shimmed & boresighted its time to finely sight it in using your click adjustments at the range.
Problems sighting in scope
