I'm up in the air about whch one to buy. Theres no real down side to the .223. But .......I've always liked the 22-250........ fast and flat!. I just hear about throat wear,barrel wear etc.What about recoil....accuracy and muzzle blast?????
This would be a coyote gun and I'm probably not to worried about pelts.Probably go with a Savage 12 fvor model 25 or a remington 700vs svs??
Thanks,
Bill
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Liberal,Independent,Conservative...
I want to ride to the ridge where the west commences,
I can't look at hobbles and I can't stand fences.
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Cole Porter
22-250 is not a barrel eater per se, unless you are cranking it up and trying to make a 220 swift out of it. That said, a 22-250 is obviously flatter shooting round than the 223. It is also louder and has a sharper, though not excessive recoil. If noise isn't an issue, then go for the 22-250. The 223 is a little cheaper to shoot, but you can load the 22-250 down and get long life out of the barrel and the brass.
Thanks for the replies. 22-250 it will be. Now leaning towards a Tikka T3.
Bill
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Liberal,Independent,Conservative...
I want to ride to the ridge where the west commences,
I can't look at hobbles and I can't stand fences.
DON'T FENCE ME IN.
Cole Porter
i havent had a tikka in my hands but i do have the savage 12 and with a good handload and a calm day it will put three in the same hole. if i do my part that is. it is a little front heavy, but this is a rifle that is designed to be shot off a bench or sticks. and the accu-trigger is the greatest thing since the advant of smokeless powder.
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shoot straight, hunt hard and appologize to no one.
Out to 300 yards there is not enough difference to worry about. After 300 yards you better be practicing a lot to be effective. If you practice a lot you have to worry about cost. If you worry about the cost of shooting the .223 wins hands down. I know that 98% of my shots will be 300 yards or less. I've owned both and now I only have a .223. Good luck with whatever you choose.
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Quit whinin' or quit huntin', they don't go together!! Reese
When they outlaw guns...I'll be an outlaw! Reese
A .380 in your pocket is better than a 45 in the truck! Stolen
"IN GOD WE TRUST"
I'm not knocking you guys that own accu-trigger equipped rifles, but I don't care for the goofy glock like rifle version of safe-t-trigger. I'd MUCH rather have an excellent trigger that breaks with NO discernible movement whatsoever like a glass rod at about 1.5-2#. And try pulling trigger on the very side without touching the tab-it will still discharge. Now the accu-triggers do make for a decent trigger when you bypass the goofy tab by pinning or blocking it to rearmost position. It will STILL be 100% safe if properly adjusted in 1st place.
Quote:
ORIGINAL: jboynjazz
i havent had a tikka in my hands but i do have the savage 12 and with a good handload and a calm day it will put three in the same hole. if i do my part that is. it is a little front heavy, but this is a rifle that is designed to be shot off a bench or sticks. and the accu-trigger is the greatest thing since the advant of smokeless powder.
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Sometimes you earthlings REALLY amaze me!
Â* I'm not knocking you guys that own accu-trigger equipped rifles, but I don't care for the goofy glock like rifle version of safe-t-trigger. I'd MUCH rather have an excellent trigger that breaks with NO discernible movement whatsoever like a glass rod at about 1.5-2#. And try pulling trigger on the very side without touching the tab-it will still discharge. Now the accu-triggers do make for a decent trigger when you bypass the goofy tab by pinning or blocking it to rearmost position. It will STILL be 100% safe if properly adjusted in 1st place.
I have a great deal of respect for Stalkingbear, but this is not entirely true. If you pull the trigger without depressing the tab, the main sear will release and the striker will move forward slightly, unsetting the trigger, but the trigger safety acts as a very positive secondary sear that blocks the full release of he sear and firing pin. If this happens, the bolt handle will need to be lifted to reset the trigger, but the rifle should NOT discharge. If it does, then the mechanism is broken and should be taken in to a gunsmith for immediate repair. Like all "safeties," one should not rely on such a mechanism as a substitute for safe gun handling. I have two Savage Accu-Trigger rifles, so this thought had already occured to me, so I tested it one day at the range with my 10ML-II by placing a primer in the bolt without a charge in the barrel and pulling the trigger without depressing the trigger safety, and the rifle did NOT fire, nor did the firing pin move forward enough to touch the primer. I also tested my Model 114 .30-06 by observing the sear/striker movement (unloaded and pointed in a safe direction, see above), and it to stops the firing pin well before it gets anywhere close to striking the primer.
Without question, the Accu-trigger is the driving force behind other manufacturers offering better triggers in order to catch up to Savage. I DO commend Savage for that. The very first Accu-trigger that came into my shop (customer order), DID in fact fully dry fire when pressing backward on side of trigger without touching the tab. It was sent back to the factory, but that is 1 of the main things initally that turned me off on the Accu-triggers. The other thing is being required to depress a tab in order to fire the rifle instead of having an glass smooth trigger with no movement. It reminds me too much of an military style trigger. Yes I DO realize they are vastly different from 2 stage triggers-just MY opinion of them. I have redone a BUNCH of Accu-triggers for customers by bypassing the tab in order to have a quality trigger pull, so appartently I'm not alone in my feelings of Accu-trigger.
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Sometimes you earthlings REALLY amaze me!
.223 or 22-250 ????
