WELCOME to our wacky group/forum chuckp! I noticed you neglected to list my personal favorite of all pumps currently being manufactured-the browning BPS. You'll most definitely want a rifled slug barrel by all means. Some people will say they're not needed for the distance you'll likely be shooting but you will for this reason-as example,a deer's vital zone is roughly 10"-12" in diameter. With an accurate rifled slug barreled shotgun,you can expect groups from 2" to 4" at 100 yards,whereas a non rifled barrel using foster type rifled slugs will be lucky to group within 6"-8" on average. That means that with the rifled sabot slugs,your aim can be off by 6" in any direction (at 100 yards) and still be assured of acchiving a clean hit in vitals. With an "regular" unrifled barreled gun,you can only err in aiming by 2" in any direction (again,at 100 yards) and still make deadly shot placement. Naturally my figures may be slightly off but you get the general idea.
There are 2 different main methods of scoping a rifled slug barrel without requiring any gunsmithing. The first is to buy a barrel that features a scope mount built on/factory installed which substends back over the reciever and is rigid with barrel. This type is called "cantilever",and is only available on certain brands/models. The second is the B-square mount which is a saddle type straddling the top of reciever,and is easily installed by replacing the cross pins of trigger group. Both methods will work fine assuming you make SURE they're installed correctly and tight.
Depending on what models of pumpguns you have,it's entirely possible you may alrealy own a model suitable for simply changing to a rifled slug barrel. The main thing to be aware of is a 3" chambered barrel most likely won't fit on a 2 3/4" reciever,as most of the newer rifled slug barrels come with 3" chamber. You can buy a complete pumpgun with rifled barrel for less than 500$ if you don't already have a suitable pump. Browning bps,remington 870,and mossberg 500 all offer rifled slug barreled pumps,to mention probably 90% of choices popularity wise.
For your purposes,a "magnum" slug will only give you more recoil over a 2 3/4" standard slug,althou I would reccomend trying several different slugs to test for optimum accuracy. Most likely,the sabot slugs will provide better accuracy but BY NO MEANS is this absolutely true all the time. Another option to consider would be the H&R/NEF single shot rifled slug guns as they are VERY economicial for their performance. Sorry my post was so long but please feel free if you need anything cleared up more or let me know if I was able to help you please. Neil
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ORIGINAL: chuckp
Howdy all....this is a multifaceted question for all you shotgun enthusiasts. I've come to the conclusion that in order to switch from a high powered rifle to a shotgun for hunting deer, going with slugs is going to be the most effective means as all my shots are fairly short and unobstructed. My first question is:
1. Model 870 / Mossberg 500 or 695 / Wiinchester 1300 / Ithica Model 37 / Banelli M190.....Any opinions on the preceding list of weapons is appreciated. Please keep in mind I'm trying to stay around $500 although I wouldn't totally be opposed to spending more if it was warranted. Also, do they come with rifled barrels or is this an additional purchase?
2. I have numerous 2.75" shotguns with various chokes including several pumps with full chokes as well and very long barrels. Do they make and would it be advisable to look for a secondary barrel for my Remington 1100 that would have rifling? Also curious if the extra powder in longer shells is just an overkill for the application?
3. Scopes - Is a b square saddle mount the best way to go and if so does it require a gunsmith to install? None of my shotguns have scope ring grooves. I am anticipating shots as far as 80 yards maximum.
4. Lastly, bolt action shotgun vs. pump vs. automatic? Would I be correct in assuming a bolt action would be the most accurate? Or have they improved what I believe they call side breech models. Wondering if that also has any effect on the compression.
I know this was a long post. I appreciate anyone who has taken the time to read this far. I know that a little experienced input can go a very long way and ultimately reduce the possibility of "post purchase dissonance", as well as injuring and losing precious game. All input is graciously accepted.
Thanks, Chuck P.
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