Paul L Mohr

No, I didn't say that all, I said I didn't personally own any weapons with this sort of finish on them, but I do have quite a bit experience with this stuff on other products. I have worked in various manufacturing plants that employ several different state of the art platings and baked on finishes. Some so expensive you wouldn't consider putting them on your rifle. None of them are fool proof and we manage to get some back with damage and underlying corrosion.

It's basic common sense, if its hard enough not to scratch, it can chip and if its soft enough not to chip it can scratch. And if it chips, scratches or was not prepped correctly it will corrode. It's really that simple honestly. So you own a few products with baked on coatings, do you work in the industry? Why should I trust your opinion based on a few examples?

Am I saying this stuff doesn't work, heck no I'm sure it does. It just seems pretty expensive is all for an exterior coating. My personal opinion, which is really all it is and last time I checked I was entitled to it without being accused of being stupid and ignorant is that a stainless steel weapon with the proper care would work just as well for less money. Heck you could darn near just use a good quality spray paint if you wanted, it would be easier to touch up when something did happen to it.

If you got the money though and like the cosmetics what the hell go for it.

As far you suggesting a good tire and me getting a flat, that is a pretty poor analogy don't you think? Unless they were run flat tires. I'm simply expecting something to do what it's advertised to do is all. I mean if they state it can go that long without cleaning, 10 shots of easy loading without an accuracy decrease should be a piece of a cake right? I was sort of joking though, I wouldn't really expect you to give my money back. I would take it up with the company I purchased it from.

Paul

Rifle Loony

Oh I'm pretty sure you could beat a big chunk ofCerekote off with a ball peen hammer if you wanted to try, but we are not talking about that. We are talking about weather proofing a chrome moly firearm, much in those words, "weather proofing". Cerekote as my choice for thatbeats anything "paint" hands down in that regardand to suggest otherwise is ludicrous. If it coddles your senses, oh wise one, to just rattle can something and think it's protected then by all means rock on. It's your junk...and I must wonder why your vast experience in various manufacturing plants didn't dictate paint on those products that you coat as well. Hell, it's cheaper isn't? Why does your company need to plate and coat if all it takes is a little rustoleum?

You are also trying to compare your products, which are obviously applied in a mass production environment, to a product that is applied on a smaller scale by skilled craftsman with his single name to protect. Not slighting the skill ofyour mass production workers in your facilitiesbut I've supervised production long enough to know that junk does get out the door occasionally and it's hard to get some of the men to give a damn about it. Maybe your return ratio demostrates a less than desirable QC performance?

Within the context of this question, without going to the far most reaches of everything encompassed in all things weather proofed, you basicallyhavethree options to make a chrome molyfirearm last longer and require less maintenance:

Blue it and wax it...

Paint it....

Coat it with a durable coating....

Take your pick and live with it.

I'll vouch for Cerekote being at the top of that pile alongwith the other ceramic baked on coatings, that's all I'm saying, nothing more and nothing less...............

HEAD0001

I have a pistol that has Teflon Coating. It was done by S&W. I have not had any problems with scratching my finish---YET. But as others have said, I try to take care of them.

I am having Cerokote applied to a new varmint rig I am having built. I should have the rifle back soon(I hope). I hope the finish is as good as some say. Tom.

Paul L Mohr

We actually paint a lot of our product where I currently work. It's painted, then sent through a heating oven to dry it. And we touch it up with spray paint. It all depends on what the customer wants. If they want to pay extra to have a more expensive finish we will certainly provide it.

And I will agree with you that of the options this is the top of line hands down, but you will pay for it as well. If that isn't a concern then go for it. But if you think it can't be damaged you might be disappointed at some point. If you hit a sharp edge, like the trigger guard or edge of the muzzle on something hard it could chip. I've seen it.

I just think stainless is a more affordable viable option is all because the whole part is made of a stain/rust resistant material as apposed to being coated.

The best thing would be to get a stainless rifle and then have it coated. We have some parts that are made this way. Most of the power steering couplings we make are this way. They are stainless metal, then plated and then have baked on finish applied to them.

Paul

Paul L Mohr

By the way, I love that grip Tom. I don't care much for the color of the frame but it's a nice looking weapon at any rate.

oldelkhunter

Have you seen cerrakote chip?

Paul L Mohr

Yes, on the edge of a trigger guard.

Paul

HEAD0001

Paul I have large hands. I had Hogue make those grips for me. They add the piece at the bottom. I think they call it a "Big Butt" addition, but I am not for sure, I ordered them a few years ago, andf I forget what Hogue called them. I think I paid about $90 for the grips, I ordered them direct.

S&W Performance Center said the finish is Teflon. I am not sure if the cylinder is Teflon or not, but if you look at the links in the cylinder you will notice little wear, and I have shot the revolver quite a bit. This is one of the original Stealth Hunter's. I was reading the other day where the Performance Center was bringing the Stealth Hunter back out. The revolver is unbelievably accurate. Tom.

oldelkhunter

Hmm what kind of rifle? I am planning on having a Sako done with that stuff.

Paul L Mohr

I honestly don't remember what model of rifle it was, it wasn't mine. It was a bolt action though. Had a couple small chips on the bottom edge of the trigger guard. I couldn't tell you what was done to it to get them there either. I would assume a hard knock on the edge of something hard with the edge of the trigger guard would do it. This would be your most liable point for damage. Any sharp edge like the trigger guard or end of the muzzle. I don't think you could damage this stuff on a flat surface without seriously trying to do it.

And even on the trigger guard or muzzle you would probably have to whack it pretty hard on something. I would for sure involve some sort carelessness that I would consider reckless gun handling. But I will admit to accidentally smacking my gun on the edge or a tree strand, or blind, or dropping one by accident. If that would be enough to do it I don't know for sure since I have never owned one with that coating.

Like I said, of the coatings available, this one is by far the best. It's just that my personal preference for the money would be a stainless gun. I'm poor though.

Paul