What brand and model of muzzle brake would work best on my savage .223. I'm getting great accuracy out of it now and want a muzzle brake to see the hits on pd's but don't want to give up any accuracy, even gain if that is possible
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Are you telling me that the recoil of the .223 bothers you? Quite simply, .223 recoil isn't supposed to bother anyone, andunless you have the BOSS system, which is only available with Browning rifles, will you get any improvements in accuracy out of a muzzlebreak.
Get the brake that you can take off. A gunsmith can thread the end of the barrel, then the brake screws on and off. You can even get a cap for the threads if you want too. I do not think you are crazy for wanting to see your hits, I have been doing it for years, and it is alot of fun. If you want it get it. Tom.
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West by God Virginia.
We need to stop using these terms today, "Sniper Rifle", "Tactical", "Assault Weapon".
Get the brake that you can take off. A gunsmith can thread the end of the barrel, then the brake screws on and off. You can even get a cap for the threads if you want too. I do not think you are crazy for wanting to see your hits, I have been doing it for years, and it is alot of fun. If you want it get it. Tom.
Can you explain how the brake helps you see the hits? I only have one brake on my rifles and thats on my 300 rum, and its for recoil only.
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about any brake should tone the barrel harmonics down to help accuracy, and cut muzzle jump to enable you to see hits at any distance. I would however go with something on the order of a Holland QD brake, those with the long holes on the sides, not only do they not throw dirt everywhere upon firing, they do increase the noise level but not as much of the sharp piercing crack you get from a brake with round holes in it.
I have a Holland on my 7mm Allen Mag, this rifle fires a nosler 160 gr accubond up to around 3700 fps, I can watch bullet impact through the scope (16X) at any range to 800 yds.
RR
Lucky, the brake ventsgasses just as the bullet leaves the barrel which instead of causing the muzzle to rise, keeps muzzle jump down considerably, the same forces which tame recoil control muzzle jump.
So you never lose sight of your target and can actualy see the bullet impact on your quarry through the scope
If your shooting p-dogs I'm gonna assume your shooting from a bipod or a bench. Add a pound of weight to the end of your barrel and you'll be able to see hits.
Actually Magna-Porting would do a better job of controllng muzzle flip. However I do not know how to put a cap on the MP. Muzzle Brakes will also control muzzle flip, but not as effective as Magna-Porting. Tom.
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West by God Virginia.
We need to stop using these terms today, "Sniper Rifle", "Tactical", "Assault Weapon".
IMO the only rifles that need a brake on them are varmint rifles chambered in light recoiling cartridges such as the .223, 22-250, etc...
They aren't on these rifles because they have shoulder pounding recoil. The brake is only there to allow the rifle to remain on target with out the shooter needing tohold down the forearm sothat youcan see the pink mist when the bullet impacts the dog. Even a .223 canrecoil enough to take you off target when shooting at extended distances and the bullet will get there before you reaquire the dog in your scope.
Youshould be wearing hearing protection any way due to the vast number of rounds fired so the loud noise associated with a brake is a moot point.
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.223 muzzle brake
