I am about to totally glass bed my 300win mag BDL SS with detach mag. I have glass bedded before, but just enough to fill recoil lug. I was always worried about going too far.
Ok, I have dams built 1.5" in front of the recoil lug, and where the mag is behind the recoil lug. Alos have a clay dam built around the tang area.
A few spots that worry me. One is the tang area. Its a small area, i can see being very messy. Second, the holes where the action screws go in.
Brownells says to put vasiline in the action holes, then release agent, then they said to put a little blob of clay, then cover my screws with release agent, and they say the action screws with just put that clay up in my action. Is this ok? Any other suggestions.
Ok, the tang area, same thing with a little blob of clay in the action?
Another worry, I know from before, its like molassas, that goes everywhere. Cleanup? I know to have vinager on hand. But around the tang area, worried it might ooze out and look bad. I know I should be able to pull the masking tape and that should clean it up. Any advise?
Lastly, making the dams too thick. Should I worry? Or will the clay compress enough so I am not pushing up the action keeping it from bedding deep enough?
Recoil lug(undercut it) and the glass is stronger than wood! Take some of the stock out all the way out the endand just glass the stock out to the end of chamber lenght,if there's enough wood removed that shoud give you a free floated barrel just keep an eye out for warpage in inclimate weather.Lapped barrels can make a big difference if it's done right also!
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If it weren't for hunting I wouldn't work! Gotta pay for my vices somehow don't I?
05 Diamond Victory(thanks Greg)
Recoil lug(undercut it) and the glass is stronger than wood! Take some of the stock out all the way out the endand just glass the stock out to the end of chamber lenght,if there's enough wood removed that shoud give you a free floated barrel just keep an eye out for warpage in inclimate weather.Lapped barrels can make a big difference if it's done right also!
Its a synthetic stock. Thanks for the reply. But the question was more about action screw holes mainly.
Location: S.W. Pa.-- Heart in North Central Pa. mountains-
Posts: 2,508
RE: Gunsmiths, glass bedding
bc....Do you have stockmaker's or inletting screws, or are you using the factory screws? The factory ones can be used successfully, but the inletting screws work SOOO much better. As far as getting resin in the screw hoes, I never worried about it too much. Just make super sure you have release agent on ALL exposed surfaces. Plenty of it. After all has cured and you take the gun apart, I drill out the action screw holes of epoxy. You don't want the screws binding or touching the sides of the hole. As far as the recoil lug goes, I always tape the sides, bottom, and front surfaces before I coat it with release. I bed it so only the back side has perfect contact with the stock. I use electrician's tape for this.
As far as being worried about the oozing out, my jobs look like the entire stock from the pistol grip forward were made of masking tape. Give it a good coating of a paste car wax, and let the stuff flow out. The tang area I treat the same. (Lots of masking tape and wax).
I guess I forgot to say that the recoil lug area needs clearanced on sides, bottom and front too before the epoxy goes in, to make room for the clearance you built in with the tape.
Location: S.W. Pa.-- Heart in North Central Pa. mountains-
Posts: 2,508
RE: Gunsmiths, glass bedding
p.s...............Forgot to mention I usually always remove the trigger assy. too. I use modeling clay to fill the magazine cutout, the trgger cutout, and the bolt slot.
"Another worry, I know from before, its like molassas, that goes everywhere."
Acraglas Jel is much easier to use and does not flow as much.i use stretchy black electricians tape a lot tocontrol the flow of the bedding compound. Good luck on your bedding job.
big, a couple thicknesses of credit card under the barrel at the forend tip will hold the barrel up enough to free float it, use plenty of release agent, acetone or laquer thinner will clean it up. put your action in with just studs sticking out the bottom and a rope or squeeze togather firlmly and wrap tape around the action. also, the portion to be glassed should be roughed up, I always used a spade drill bit, just tap the tip in the wood all over where you want glass to stick.
RR
Thanks guys, so my worry on the action screws is just that. Worrying.
I thought about buying a set of inletting screws, but decided just to use the action screws.
I ordered a pretty nice gun vise and am going to wait until it comes in.
PA, when it oozes out, and I clean up with vinager, I heard that vinager also removes the release agent. I guess at that point, I shouldn't care, cause I removed both at that point.shape it.
Ridge, what do you mean, "with the studs hanging out at the bottom? You mean I shouldn't install the action screws? But compress the action to the stock only useing rope or tape?
Also PA, you fill the entire mag assembly with clay?
Gunsmiths, glass bedding
