Sako Hunter 75 Question

[LouisianaHunter]

I recently purchased a used Sako 75 Hunter from a local gun shop. I wanted to know if there is a way to determine the year of manufacture from the serial number? The gun appears to have minimal usage and I would like to know how old it is.

[spencer0071]

I have seen Remington and Winchesterbooklets that list what serial numbers they produced in each calandar year at local gun shows, but i believe that they are updated every 5 or 10 years. I think that you would be better off emailing Tikka/Sako for the informaiton that you need.

[LouisianaHunter]

Tried that first. No email available, only an address and a phone number to Finland. I have, in the past, ran across a chart that broke down the Browning serial numbers and was hoping Sako had the same so I could find out how old the gun is.

[Solitary Man]

Well, they were introduced in 1996 or 1997 if that's of any help. It was designated "75" to commemorate the company's 75th anniversary. I own two myself and think they're fine rifles.

[LouisianaHunter]

Yes, that helps, At least I know it can't be more than 10 years old now. Thanks

[Solitary Man]

I did a little internet research and apparently 1997 is correct according to the following article:

http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_8_45/ai_55605741

[LouisianaHunter]

Good reading, thanks. So it apprears the the gun should not be more than 9 years old.

Now, my problem is cleaning the copper from the barrel. Butches and 2 hours of labor still leaves copper lines in the barrel.

[Solitary Man]

Try Montana Extreme 50BMG or Wipeout. 50BMG is a real aggressive ammonia based copper cleaner. Wipeout is less aggressive and is designed to be left in the barrel overnight. Both work really well.

50BMG is very strong and I guarantee you don't won't to put your nose over an openbottle of it and take a whiff. Use it in a well ventilated area. Also, in case you decide to try some, I have found that the best way to apply it is with a boremop with a steel core. Using it with a brass jag or brass cored nylonbrush will give you false indications of copper (since brass is a copper alloy). After applying it with the bore mop and waiting 10 or 15 minutes, push a patch throughon the end ofa separate clean bore mopto see if you have any blue color. If you do, you've still got copper in the barrel.

Wipeout is easier to use, though it can be a bit messy since it's a foam. I use a Sinclair bore guide in the chamber (it has an "O" ring which seals the chamber, keeping solvent out of the action and stock)and squirt it into the muzzle until it comes out of the bore guide. I place something under the rear of the bore guide to catch it as it oozes outso it won't get on the stock. Then I place the gun, muzzle slightly down,in a gun cradle and patch it out after about 8 to 10 hours. May take two or three applications on your gun, so you're talking a couple of days.

Anyway, those are the two that I use. There are several others on the market also, some good, some not so good.

[chma]

Send an e-mail to this guy he has been very helpful in the past Terttu.Kallio@Sako.fi I hope this helps chad

[LouisianaHunter]

I have a guy I work with bringing me an amonnia based cleaner (10%). I will see how that works. I am hoping that the reason I am getting all the copper fouling in because the barrel in not broke in yet. Again, I bought the gun used from a gun shop and really don't know the history other than it looks like it has very little use on it which is why I bought it instead of a new one.

Thanks for the input.