O.K., for any experts out there. Here is my situation. I've got a new Tikka T-3 laminated stainless rifle (in 270 WSM) to which I just mounted a Leupold VX III 3.5-10 X 40 gun metal grey scope. It has the B & C reticle. In the accompanying CD, Leupold recommends zeroing the scope at 300 yards for that caliber. Right now I'll be shooting Federal Vital-Shok 140 gr. Nosler Accubond ammo. I'd like to do some preliminary sighting in at my local rifle range, but they only have a 100 yard range. Until I can get somewhere with longer ranges, how high should I be at 100 yards to be close? My other thought was just to do the normal 2.5 inch high at 100 yards and then experiment later on. Any thoughts or suggestions? I have an friend with a somewhat similar set-up, but he zeroed at 100 and had holding points for approximately 200, 300, 350, and 400. I don't know if I like that or not. Any positive thoughts or ideas would be welcomed. Thanks.
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If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.
go to this site and it will give you all the info that you need from 100 yards to 1000 yards Click here: Ballistics Charts
Thanks for the site...Very useful.
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"If you ever go into the bush, there are grizzly bears lurking behind just about every bush, waiting to pounce, so you need a powerful gun with huge bullets" - Gatehouse ~ 2004
Hello B&B. To do this right you need 3 components....MV,Weight and BC. A 130gr bullet with a MV of 3000'/sec with a BC of .450 with a 250 yard zero looks like this:
I guess i have the same issuie in a way.BugsnBows i figured this would be an easier way to state my problem to instead of making a whole new bulliten.. I hope thats fine i use yours.....
Okay as most know i'm planning on sighting in my 7remmag Either next weekend or the weekend after.. Well my local gun range also has a Limted 50/100 yard range.. I do not know much about sighting in rifles but my shots on the felid could be from 50- 350 yards in the mountains.. SHould i just get my rilfe zeroed at 100 and just raise over a deer/elk back when i have shot over 200 yards? or what do i do? i have no clue wat to do...... Maybe you guys can help me here... Thanks...
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Savage model 111fcxp3 7mm Rem Mag 3-9x40_ 160 gr federal premium accubond
Marlin 336a 3-9x40 30-30 170 gr Federal fusion
This program took me a while to figure out, but with a little patience and reading of the Readme you should be able to figure it out. If not, give me a hollar and I'll try to help.
You will need a chronograph for sure. Finding the BC of your bullet is the next thing that is a must. Most websites will give that to you. Then just typing in a few different parameters and telling it the range will give you the correct MOA +/- for any distance.
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I have seen differences between the calculated point of impactand the actual point of impact of a few inches at 300 yards and several inches at 500 yards even when the actual velocity was known.If you are using the posted velocity instead of an actual chronographed velocity,the error can be even larger.
i dont know about you guys, but all this mumbo jumbo about MV, BC, and weight seems like a waste of time to me, for the last ten years all i have done it set my rifle to shoot 3.5 inches high at 100 yrds, and i havent had a problem, last years moose i shot at approx 325-400 yrds no problem, but do all the figureing you want too, this is what i do. just my .02
happy hunting, 22 more days untill moose opens in my area!!! yippeee!!
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Sighting in too far out will give you a really high max point blank, which sux for hunting. I sight my 7mm saum at 150, which makes it 1 1/2 in high at 100 and dead on a 50 also. max point blank is inside on inch. at 300 mine is 8in low like this, 200yds is 2.5 in low and 4in low at 250. 26in low at 400, which is the farthesy ill shoot at a deer.
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Need trajectory / ballistic assistance
